Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just another curiosity question, whats the difference between buying some fairly cheap lock nuts, for example spending $60 at Tyrepower or similar.

And spending two hundred dollars on Rays Dura Nuts or another expensive lock nuts.

I assume its more than just the way the nuts look, but whats the difference? Is it related to protecting the wheel from been stolen?

Regards,

Gareth

matie,

beside the fact that they do look better. theres much more to it - they actually are more heavy duty, last longer and will give you peace of mind that they will bolt on steadily and will not fail.

put it this way, when you and your loved ones are in the car, do you want to go the mile to make sure their safety is assured or save some money and theres a possibilty somethine unwanted may happen?

you have got to be kidding me - that's not true at all.

the ones you get from tyre power are just fine.

the bolts only locate the wheel onto the hub. the hub is where all the load on the wheel goes NOT the wheel nuts, not the wheel studs.

the Rays ones are light, but i'm sure you can find a better place to lighten your wallet!!!

oh and any wheel thief can take the wheel regardless of what type of locker you have. all it takes is a chisel and hammer.

save yourself the $140 change, or give it to me and I'll spend it.

I've actually had problems with buying the el cheapo wheel nuts from ebay and other top tyres stores, and found that they aren't as solid as they should be cause the fact i've rounded the insides of them alot, and been replacing them all the time.

And also with the lug nut key that they come with, get rounded pretty easily.

thats just my 2c.

-Tom

hang on a sec are we talking about the same thing??

I'm talking about the set of 4 locking nuts that come with a key to stop theft.

if you're talking about all the bolts that hold a wheel on - what is wrong with the factroy nissan ones??

hang on a sec are we talking about the same thing??

I'm talking about the set of 4 locking nuts that come with a key to stop theft.

if you're talking about all the bolts that hold a wheel on - what is wrong with the factroy nissan ones??

because they dont fit with nismo lm gt2 rims :whistling:

Locking nuts will help again theft just as much as any other lock. But, if they really, really want it, then it's breakable. I would get it on mine anyway just for that reason if I had expensive/high chance of theft sort of wheels. I've have my cars messed with too much back home so I am a little protective now.

Hi,

Just another curiosity question, whats the difference between buying some fairly cheap lock nuts, for example spending $60 at Tyrepower or similar.

And spending two hundred dollars on Rays Dura Nuts or another expensive lock nuts.

I assume its more than just the way the nuts look, but whats the difference? Is it related to protecting the wheel from been stolen?

Regards,

Gareth

There is no difference. As others have said, if thieves want it, they will take it no matter what lock nut you have on there. it's just a safety measure for amatuer thieves. But obviously, try not to buy made in China stuff as threads will strip. Try and find something middle of the range. But with the RAYS, you are paying for the name.

beside the fact that they do look better. theres much more to it - they actually are more heavy duty, last longer

Have you ever owned a set?

There's a reason why RAYS have to provide you with a torque load for their lock nuts, and tell you that you can only ever hand tighten them. Its because they're soft, a lot softer than your regular stainless steel ones. I forgot about that once, and when I took my car to a tyre shop they practically destroyed mine. Since I also change my wheels frequently (I have street and track rims) it means I'm constantly on them, which also reduces their life.

But they are amazingly light. If you're trying to shave off every hundredth at the track, that little big of unsprung weight might make a difference but on the street its all rice.

And in some cases, like the Volk GT-Cs, you have to use a specific set of nuts to make them fit.

I personally think there not that great i had a set that came with my ssr's and i lost the key for them, there so easy to remove with no key its not funny, so i dont see the point in having them at all, but thats my opion?

All our wheel nuts have been around $15 from beaurepaires or goodyear, and we haven't had any problems. They might be cheaper material but, it's not such a problem if you don't overtighten them. Just don't use the impact gun on them and don't use too much leverage and they'll be fine

The main difference between the rays and the other brands of lock nuts, is the weight. It's alot lighter than your other nuts. So reduction of unsprung weight is the main focus here.

you think it makes a difference? hah!

unless you have a stripped out racer with lightweight rims, alloy hat rotors, etc etc, the "lighter" nuts mean precisely..... DICK. Plus the centrifugal force is fark all as they are so close to the centre of rotation.

kindly deposit the $140 to my account also.

You do know that some jap wheels have very small lug holes, and only way to fit them is to buy them expensive nuts.

Few months ago i bought workmeisters, but found out later that my nissan lug nuts don't fit in the holes so had to order a set of the goodstuff.

-Tom

Some interesting replies so far, I'll double check what wheels I have on my car in a couple of days, from what I know there just 18inch alloys, nothing too special.

Nothing I'd like to get stolen either obviously so I would be buying some lock nuts if the car didn't come with some.

Thanks for the advice, I might look around for what lock nuts are available and compare the prices....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...