Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

In this time i crazy about suspension between Tein Super Street amd G4 racing..

I know tein is good suspension. but i dont have any idea about g4 racing.

anybody use the g4? and please recommand other compnay as well..

thanks,

Lance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168681-recommand-suspension/
Share on other sites

Mate, 1 piece of advice I'll give you is whatever suspension you choose make sure it's not too hard. A lot of people race out and buy the hardest coil overs and the biggest wheels they can fit and the problem with this is it just plain makes the car dangerous. The back wheels have no give and simply break traction and axle tramp under the pump. They also don't absorb any of the cars inertia during cornering and can cause the car to unsettle over bumps during cornering. Last of course is the ride WILL drive you nuts, far too hard! I've fallen into this trap and will never buy HARD suspension again unless the car was going to be purely a track car. Hope that helps.

I have the SK group but stuff in my car and the only place in Vic that its too soft for is phillip island... so unless your going to be hitting PI often the Bilstein whiteline combo is great!

I have never driven on the Tein super streets or the G4 stuff but I can tell you buying 'adjustable' coilovers is a waste of time... do some more reading on shock technology and handling and you will see what I mean

I have the SK group but stuff in my car and the only place in Vic that its too soft for is phillip island... so unless your going to be hitting PI often the Bilstein whiteline combo is great!

I have never driven on the Tein super streets or the G4 stuff but I can tell you buying 'adjustable' coilovers is a waste of time... do some more reading on shock technology and handling and you will see what I mean

I have the Bilstien setup also however I have slighter stiffer spring rates than the SK GB. Car goes pretty well, just need to learn how to drive it consistantly at DECA :laugh:

my issues is the stock diff now. 1.5 way comming my way soon.

Tein: Great Japan quality. If bought through Fulcrum, they are re valved/sprung for Australian roads.

G4 Racing: Cheaper quality, not sure where they are made. Will not perform as good, in the long run.

Even though the SK gb kit are great, i still prefer my adjustability. I like the thought of adjusting the stiffness for various roads, events, conditions, etc. And the Tein EDFC makes it soooooooooooooooo much easier :D

I have the SK group but stuff in my car and the only place in Vic that its too soft for is phillip island... so unless your going to be hitting PI often the Bilstein whiteline combo is great!

I have never driven on the Tein super streets or the G4 stuff but I can tell you buying 'adjustable' coilovers is a waste of time... do some more reading on shock technology and handling and you will see what I mean

I disagree with the coilover statement, height and dampener adjustment is very useful. Height is good for raising if the cops pin you and dampenr is great for fun/track days and other events.

Lance - What are you looking to get from your car? What will you be using it for?

Mate I was raped by Pettett last week and he was picking on my ride height. Now I know for a fact that it's sitting at 110mm at the pipe (lowest point) but he STILL gave me a hard time about it. The fact I can raise the car for testing is priceless. All you need is one assho|e cop like him and you'd have to get a lot more work done to raise non adjustable suspension. Now I know you'll say "make it legal ride height and you'll have no issues" but we both know that aint the case huh.

All I'm saying is the SK group buy for instance is almost the cost of a set of Tien Super Street (Fulcrum local stuff). I'm about to change my suspension and I know what I'll be choosing.

fair enough then!

yep you have to take the Bilsteins out to reset the height... but I have never been pulled over let alone hassled about ride height... I have mine set pretty high though, otherwise the tires scrub really badly on the rear guards... you should move away from Knox!

Mate I was raped by Pettett last week and he was picking on my ride height. Now I know for a fact that it's sitting at 110mm at the pipe (lowest point) but he STILL gave me a hard time about it. The fact I can raise the car for testing is priceless. All you need is one assho|e cop like him and you'd have to get a lot more work done to raise non adjustable suspension. Now I know you'll say "make it legal ride height and you'll have no issues" but we both know that aint the case huh.

All I'm saying is the SK group buy for instance is almost the cost of a set of Tien Super Street (Fulcrum local stuff). I'm about to change my suspension and I know what I'll be choosing.

I know you've been raped... more than once... :)

lol

Ye i know that, but if you are sitting 110mm, why are you even raising it?

Your legal to begin with!

ive got tiens and they are pretty stiff.. but id rather a stiff ride (yeh i know that sounds gay) over bodyroll anyday

Only thr Jap Spec are stiff.

If you bought them through Fulcrum they would be ALOT better and comfortable. Yet the still have enough dampner ajdustment to make them pretty damn stiff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...