Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Before I call Action Alarms is there anyone recommended and cheap to a get an immobiliser installed in my '79 MKII Escort?

Also what does a basic basic basic immobiliser cost to get installed?

cheers

Tom

Roughly about slightly $120 bucks would cost you for the thing supplied and fitted. The remote kind, if i'm not wrong. Alvin in willetton would prolly do you for that price i'd think.

Before I call Action Alarms is there anyone recommended and cheap to a get an immobiliser installed in my '79 MKII Escort?

Also what does a basic basic basic immobiliser cost to get installed?

cheers

Tom

Why would you need an immobiliser in the Escort? I rekon if you left it in the middle of the city, with the window down, keys in the igniton and engine idling it would be safe from theives :sleep:

Just kidding Tom. I assume this is your new bunky?I have not had an immobilser fitted in years, however i reckon dont go anything less than a push button. The press in type are pretty crap and annoying. We get customers cars all the time with the cheap type and they are soooo annoying.

dont go anything less than a push button. The press in type are pretty crap and annoying. We get customers cars all the time with the cheap type and they are soooo annoying.

Thats what a basic basic basic cheap one is though, just a 'key' you press into the dash.... Don't worry Brad the Escort won't be getting a Bilstein kit installed any time soon :sleep:

I ticked 'NO' on the transfer papers :P, so they sent me a letter saying I had to get one.... I would happily leave it without one if it weren't for my stupidity. Can I just say that I got one fitted?

Willeton is a bit far for me, probably keep it around Joondalup/Whitfords area if I have to get one...

Ive had several cars that i ticked YES to immobilsers fitted. IF they need a receipt, get one dodgeyed one up. It will only be an issue if it does get stolen and you want to claim insurance as they will say no to your claim.

I have a guy........ If you know what i mean.

So no bilstein kit at all???? How about Koni coilovers then? lol Sawybars, bushes, coils?????

I seriosuly reckon we can make it get a faster lap time around barbagallo :laughing-smiley-014:

Cool, I will dodge them then.

I wanna do SOMETHING with suspension but it will be shocks only because it has..... *cough*........ leaf springs! Rusted leaf springs :sleep: I can fit my index finger and thumb around the tyres as well :P

It only has a 1.6L KENT engine though, if I was gunna race it I would want an RS engine or a 2L PINTO.

Surely :dry:

escortfrontzw2.th.jpg escortrear2jb4.th.jpg escortengine2cm5.th.jpg escortexhaustyy8.th.jpg

2 old lady owners 98,000 on the clock (only problem with that is these old Escorts don't go over 100,000)

Licenced (for 2 weeks, but still, no pits check)

Stereo (tape deck and 2 rear 6"inchers)

Engine serviced as regularly as the old bettys memory could go back, oil filter looks very new as do the spark plugs

Compression & Oil rings done in the engine 2 years ago (BIG PLUS!)

y'know with basic sump mods you can slot a 4AGZE into these things? :)

seems in bloody good nick for its age though.

As a side not, immobilisers are only compulsory in cars less than 25 years old.

I found that out when I bought a Datsun Sunny that was 25 years and 2 months old.

y'know with basic sump mods you can slot a 4AGZE into these things? :)

seems in bloody good nick for its age though.

As a side not, immobilisers are only compulsory in cars less than 25 years old.

I found that out when I bought a Datsun Sunny that was 25 years and 2 months old.

Cool, and this thing is 28 years old :(

I used t own a 2DR with my dad a few years ago and that had the 2L PINTO motor, but was auto. We sold it to a guy that puts those toyota motors in them. I remember him saying he puts Supra gearboxes in them as well.

y'know with basic sump mods you can slot a 4AGZE into these things? :)

seems in bloody good nick for its age though.

As a side not, immobilisers are only compulsory in cars less than 25 years old.

I found that out when I bought a Datsun Sunny that was 25 years and 2 months old.

RB30!!

you would need a gear ratio of about 0.0000001 to get traction, but fun none-the-less. :(

Hold on! i own a mark 1 escort with sr20det. Runs 12's down the quarter and likes to spin the wheels at 100k plus.

As for suspension i have bilstein coilovers up front and koni adjsutable shocks all round, whitleine sway bar, short ratio steering rack. r33 calipers on 300mm cross drilled disks, Borg Warner LS

As for the imobiliser , why not install a cheapo battery cut off switch and tell em the job is done.

You should have ticked the YES box mate heh.. oh and RaceTune is like 100m from my house, they build some badass escorts and I constantly hear them tuning some really rude pieces of machinery :pwned:

But a bunky is a bunky.. about the most I'd do is weld the diff up for a bit of fun on the winter commutes :dry:

MKI for the win, you know you want to.... will be much lighter.

I have no speakers at work but this thing corners beautifully flat :D

Speakers would not have helped you....unless you speak german? lol

My mate is building an Escort at the moment. Mk2 with mexican wide body kit. Hopefully it will be ready for the track before christmas.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...