Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone

We're conducting a High Performance Training and Track Driving Day at Sandown on Tuesday 12th June

We will be running the day as an 'open pit lane' day, but we will also have 4 qualified (Certificate 3 and 4) instructors with lots of experience at Sandown, (they are all old tossers like me !!).

We also provide lunches, tea / coffee / soft drinks / cakes !!, flaggies and Racesafe medical / rescue crew.

You do not need a CAMS or ASSA licence to participate in our High Performance Training and Track Driving Days

The format we run to is: 3 groups of ten drivers, twenty minutes of track time per hour.

Start time is 8.30 am for safety briefing, track is open from 9.00 am until 4.00pm

We normally charge $335.00 per driver, but we'll let you have it for $280.00

If you would like to come along please let me know via email [email protected] or call me 0413 540 197

Please dont send me a pm.

Regards

Kev

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168929-trackday-at-sandown-12th-june/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hi Everyone

We're conducting a High Performance Training and Track Driving Day at Sandown on Tuesday 12th June

We will be running the day as an 'open pit lane' day, but we will also have 4 qualified (Certificate 3 and 4) instructors with lots of experience at Sandown, (they are all old tossers like me !!).

We also provide lunches, tea / coffee / soft drinks / cakes !!, flaggies and Racesafe medical / rescue crew.

You do not need a CAMS or ASSA licence to participate in our High Performance Training and Track Driving Days

The format we run to is: 3 groups of ten drivers, twenty minutes of track time per hour.

Start time is 8.30 am for safety briefing, track is open from 9.00 am until 4.00pm

We normally charge $335.00 per driver, but we'll let you have it for $280.00

If you would like to come along please let me know via email [email protected] or call me 0413 540 197

Please dont send me a pm.

Regards

Kev

Kev - interested, But can you put down what we need to bring? Ie - aside from a helmet - do we need to prepare the car in anyway? Fire extinguisher etc?

Edit - crap its on a working day.....:)

Damn Kev, you better run a few more of these later in the year, when my car is back on the road. :(

PS: Just out of interest.

Is this event classed as a "Driver training day"? Only ask as Shannons covers accidents that have occured on such events :) . Could be my perfect solution, to get back on the track.

A couple more of these after August would be great! :D

Damn Kev, you better run a few more of these later in the year, when my car is back on the road. :laugh:

PS: Just out of interest.

Is this event classed as a "Driver training day"? Only ask as Shannons covers accidents that have occured on such events :wub: . Could be my perfect solution, to get back on the track.

A couple more of these after August would be great! :)

Yes Al, it is classified as a driver training day, my instructors are all fully qualified Certificate 3 and 4 driver trainers.

Im guessing guys that if they were run on weekends then none of us could afford it as Kev woudl have to pass on the additional expense of track hire?

Seriously, put in a day of leave. Tell the boss its in his own best interest, if you ever drive company vehicles. I cant see too many bosses knocking back days of leave for "training"

My problem is car, need tyres and new brake pads :) There is 2k there :laugh:

I'm in for this... only issue being my car decided to dump ALL its water on the garage floor overnight... it looks like its coming out from the sump/steering rack area *eeek*.... if its just a perished hose or fitting I'm there! you have a tentative email Kev

Im guessing guys that if they were run on weekends then none of us could afford it as Kev woudl have to pass on the additional expense of track hire?

Seriously, put in a day of leave. Tell the boss its in his own best interest, if you ever drive company vehicles. I cant see too many bosses knocking back days of leave for "training"

My problem is car, need tyres and new brake pads :) There is 2k there :P

damn....so no chance of the weekend track days for a while atleast - will see if i can get the 12th off and head down.

I'm in for this... only issue being my car decided to dump ALL its water on the garage floor overnight... it looks like its coming out from the sump/steering rack area *eeek*.... if its just a perished hose or fitting I'm there! you have a tentative email Kev

i'm there too bro...sent Kev the email. should be good.

Yeah Chris should be good to get an instructor in the car

car will be fixed in time... I freaked out after I filled it back up with water and drove it to the garage, when I jumped out and popped the hood there was steam everywhere and I'm thinking oh dear... well it turns out there was a pin prick hole in a coolant hard line that was spraying water right onto the exhaust housing of the turbo! interesting way to keep a turbo cool hehe

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...