Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i solved the idle issue, dont really know if this is a problem but have to ask to be sure..

Had a testdrive and the commander showed small knock readings all the time, 10-13 constantly without any load.

Dropps to zero if the gas is released and break with the engine.

Tried to back the ignition 3 degrees, also tried to add more fuel but the knock doesnt change, could there be something else causing the sensors to go mad?

Did try to put some load to the engine too and got a max reading at 24, but the main concerne is the constant knock..

/Fredrik

As long as the knock doesnt go about 20-25, dont worry about it.

10-13 is normal dude. There is always going to be some noise.

Thats just part and parcel of the motor innards moving around, a motor isnt 100% silent and thats the 10-20 knock that the sensor is picking up, just engine noise

Thanks, then i dont have to get worried until i can get the car properly tuned..

Never heard about the constant knock readings before..

Better be safe than sorry :)

Edited by Fredde

what sort of conditions did you recieve the high knock at for 79? thats the question also u need to ask.. but yeah i see about 8 - 10 normally, and mine ive noticed mainly drivetrain related or going over bumps does it too damn knock sensor

i have a 32 gtr which knocks to 30 under minimal loads such as cruising and at no throttle when eng braking. Under wide open throttle it doesnt go over 30 but if i add timing the car will ping quite noticably for a split second but the knock level doesnt go over 30. My conclusion is a dodgy knock sensor. Ive had 3 power fcs in 3 previous cars and never have seen this before. Oh and the eng is quiet at all times except ticking injectors. That might help

Thanx michael..

you might need to use the map tracer and freeze the tracer when your knock waring light comes on. Then you need to go into settings and reduce the timing in the area you froze the tracer. Start by taking out 1 degree at a time. Im sure if you did a search in the FAQ section there would be a step by step instuction of how to do it.

Thanx Michael....

yes it may.

hmmm i get high knock noises sometimes... i took it into boostworks and they tuned it and said there was nothing wrong wid it etc. but since then i still get high knock readings every now and then. so i just presume thats the way the car is.. and its been going on bout 5 months now i guess

I deffinately wouldnt be happy with 10 - 15 knock without load. The engine doesnt make that much noise. When im cruising my knock sits on 1-2 and ever now and then will tap 3-4 and go straight back to 1. In other words its a long way off 10 - 13 constant.

hmmm i get high knock noises sometimes... i took it into boostworks and they tuned it and said there was nothing wrong wid it etc. but since then i still get high knock readings every now and then. so i just presume thats the way the car is.. and its been going on bout 5 months now i guess

They probably said it was ok because it was ok on the dyno. They cant match exact load on the rollers as your car will have on the street. Especially if you use a bleed valve and you are already doing 4500 rpm plus (which is when most peoples turbo is making boost) and you floor it the boost will spike higher than what the vehicle was tuned at. Some tuners dont allow for this when they are tuning but in their defence some turbos and boost controllers dont work that well either.

You can correct it each time you drive by going in to settings scoll down to ign/inj press next, there will be a 0 highlighted next to the 0 says adj i think, arrow down twice and it should say -2 then press back until your on your monitor screen. This will take out 2 degrees of timing through the whole map. Once you turn the car off the ecu will go back to normal settings so this will need to be done every time you start the car. This will work until you have the timing removed from the area that is the problem.

Thanx Michael...

The only way to really tell is to use either a knock meter like snap on or some of the Jap ones like TOMEI. Each engine is going to register different knock readings dependent on numerous factors EG: Forged piston or standard, bearing clearances etc.

I had one car that had twin screamers and one was slightly touching the engine and would register obscene readings.

I have also heard that some of the older fc's had some issues with knock readings so if unsure get it double checked as $100 of labor is well worth it compared to a engine rebuild

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...