Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Talk to Sam about the idle problem. He would know better then anyone since he was working on the car and knows what was changed.

Looks promising though. When you are done see if Sam can lay your power curve over mine (Silver R32 with TD06 that made 240odd on his dyno) . I suspect your curve will be enough to convince me that the Plazmaman inlets are worth the money :P

Hope you get it sorted, be good to see another silver R32 makign some numbers in Vic ;)

I had a problem similar the your's with the missing so I went and bought the splitfire coil packs to but that didnt fix the problem had to the gap the plugs down to 7mm b4 it fixed it ,was a bit dissappointed with the splitfires really .I would stay with coppers to atm till you sort out your problems with the miss fire I use them all the time .Can U post up a pic of the engine bay with the plenum fitted please, thinking about getting one of them for my car but just want to know what has to be modified for it

Cheers Peter

The Splitfire are good in that you can at least be confident that the spark is even accross all the cylinders, and they are cheaper then new form Nissan. Mine are gappedat either .76 or .78mm. No issue even up to 1.5bar

On the same dyno....against an RB20 with GCG Hi-Flow R34 turbo.

gallery_462_50_8431.jpg

Fix up the spark, also what are you doing for boost control. It seems to roll onto boost rather then really coming on and boogying. The other thing that may be worth trying is cam gears. A few ppl have now commented that could be the difference between good results and very surprising results. My first tuner said they didnt do anything on my car, the current tuner was obviously able to find power somewhere, could be the cam gears.

When Sam dyno'd my car i was running more boost then the engine was really tuned for. I asked my tuner to stop protecting me from myself and on his dyno im now making 26rwkws more so i would suggest cam gears could be something to look closely at. God knows 260/8.9mm cams didnt work in my engine :D

i had similar problems when i did my car the car turning off and not idleing is a tuning problem.

have him look at it again.

another thing i notice with your car you said it only pulled 117rwkw when it was stock.

mine pulled 142rwkw with just 3inch exhaust i dont think the exhaust would put that much power down??? would it?

has your mechanic checked the compression?

make sure you head gasket isnt screwed BEFORE you run 20 psi thorught it trust me i know from experiance. IT WILL GO BANG!

Talk to Sam about the idle problem. He would know better then anyone since he was working on the car and knows what was changed.

Looks promising though. When you are done see if Sam can lay your power curve over mine (Silver R32 with TD06 that made 240odd on his dyno) . I suspect your curve will be enough to convince me that the Plazmaman inlets are worth the money :(

Hope you get it sorted, be good to see another silver R32 makign some numbers in Vic :)

yea i have already booked in another tune with him next week. hopefully it rolls our of there purring like a kitten.. hehe.

ill let him know to do a tune Challenge between ur's and mine. then will have to line em up and let Faith know who wins :)

i had similar problems when i did my car the car turning off and not idleing is a tuning problem.

have him look at it again.

another thing i notice with your car you said it only pulled 117rwkw when it was stock.

mine pulled 142rwkw with just 3inch exhaust i dont think the exhaust would put that much power down??? would it?

has your mechanic checked the compression?

make sure you head gasket isnt screwed BEFORE you run 20 psi thorught it trust me i know from experiance. IT WILL GO BANG!

yea 117kw is a dead stock R32 gts-t no mods or boost. sam was telling me most stock R32's make 95-100kw's

and no i havnt checked the compression but it is a good idea. i will let sam know to check it 4 me.

ill try put sum shit NGK coppers in and gap em to 0.7mm see if that does anything.

cheers

will keep u guys posted

hey how you doin mate. look i know im a newbie and all 2 dis site but i had da same problem. wen u punch it n back off n hold the clutch in does it feel like its gona stall on u and come back 2 normal revs?? and da splattering??? ok i tried bigger fuel pump, coils, sparkplugs, etc etc etc. when i wen back dey narrowed it down 2 da vct. while dey have it on a dyno if it does it again get em 2 pull off da plug 4 it n play around wid da timing.

just a hint. it took me a month n every day at da work shop 2 get em 2 find it.

i have a r33 wid hybrid front mount single stage boost controller, bov, aftermarket fuelpump, platinum spark plugs ( which do make a better spark in my case ) that are gapped at .8.

even with da vct not connected i pulled 213.2 kw@tw. so im guessing u will blow way over wat u think :(

anyways good luck wid it n hope it works out well 4 ya :worship:

^^^ For those who don't understand jibberish:

dis = this

da = the

wen = when

dey = they

wid = with

And let me guess...you have an atmo bov...if you do then thats why you're having stalling issues...and you're making 213rwkw without a proper ecu? *cough cough*

Edited by limpus

With regards to the splitfires..

There's a thread over on the datalogit forum where some one checked out the coils with an FSA scope.

Long story short the dwll time within the pfc for the split fires was incorrect. Resulting in ignition breakdown at over 17psi odd ~290awkw.

Adjusted dwell time so that the coil is saturated and missfire disappears.

hahaha na seriously thats what i got on the dyno on a stock computer. like i said i havent had the car long so the previous owner must have done something 2 it. i know what u mean because i didnt believe it either when they told me.

sam was telling me most stock R32's make 95-100kw's

not to take anything away from sam, but i really doubt that :D

i have not heard of a single healthy stock rb20 making near that figure, hell even CA's make around that at the rear wheels. ofcourse this depends on alot of things. even i and mates have have theirs dynod in stinking hot weather, one got 140rwkw and the other got 120rwkw, both absolutely bone stock, i got 150 with just a AM catback exhaust. all different dynos at different times BTW

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...