Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i posted this topic here because i wanted a few quick responses

just got new speakers and now i cant get the friggin old speakers out (rear)

there doesnt seem to be any screws on it?

i have no idea?

i tried the search button but as usual, its comming up with 5 billion unrelated threads

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169966-r33-s2-speaker-removal/
Share on other sites

assume ur talking about the rear speakers?

if you want to do it properly without breaking anything then it goes from memory

1. take out rear seats

- take the part where u sit ur ass on out first (2 bolts and clips)

- take out the other part (2 bolts and clips)

2. take off door cards, all clips, just pull em out gently/firmly

3. take off the handles above your head which you hang onto when cornerring (2 screws under the small cover things on either side

4. this now gives u access to the rear parcel shelf, cant remmeber there maybe a couple screws from underneath. should slide right out.

If u dont take the plastic pillars out theres a small slit in the parcel sheve that it sits in and u risk snaping the pillars if u dont take them out.

should be pretty straight forward froom here

:P

i had a crack at mine with the exact same method as above but found out my child restraint is welded in a way that stops me from removing the whole parcel shelf. i was thinking of grinding it off but might need it for not getting defected. its soo annoying. arrrh.

yeah it doesnt take that long if you know what your doing.

I have had trouble removing the rear seats, the clip is jammed on the part you sit on...is there a special way of undoing it? Thought i might ask before getting out the crowbar.

Use muscles... its clipped in good...

I only remove the rear seats when getting my speakers out.. stuff removing that other crap... never needed to and never broken anything

Did my rear speakers removed back seat as described above. A screwdriver or some other lever helps with the lower part of the seat, just lever next/through the clips. I didn't remove my pillar trims etc, was just bloody carefull when i removed the parcel shelf.

Took 10mins max.

P.S. Standard speakers were 6" round speakers, 6x9s might be a problem the parcel shelf is not flat you may need to mod your spacers.

Good luck.

sweet i got the back seats out,

it scared the shit out of me when it came loose!

i have those child restraint things too i hope i can still get them out

if all fails then il just take it to garys car radio, cbf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...