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  • 2 weeks later...

where do i buy all the brake pads everyone has posted about?

besides bendix, you can get them from the milkbar.. its time for a brake change dnt know what to get..

More people are talking shit about bendix pads rather then posting whats good and whats not..

Could people post where to find because i cant find shit..

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey everyone, this is more of an enquiry than anything else, but I compete in motorkhana's, hillclimbs and sprints and I was looking at getting th QFM pads. I was really wanting to get the 750 degree ones for their track use but I would need cold bite for the motorkhana's and such. Should I just get the 550 degree ones or would the 750's do the cold job alright. one last thing is how bad is the squeel?

P.S. I also have a R32 Type M GTS-T and I heard that they are the same calipers and pads as the non-brembo GT-R's

Edited by TURISMO
  • 2 weeks later...

hey im considering on buy ferodo DS2500 for street use only and maybe 1 track day, but need a product identification number or a place where i can goto to buy them if i cant find a place i will have to get the bendex ultimates

PS: the guys at supercheap autp ask if i could get a product id number/serial as they couldn't find the pad on system :S

hey im considering on buy ferodo DS2500 for street use only and maybe 1 track day, but need a product identification number or a place where i can goto to buy them if i cant find a place i will have to get the bendex ultimates

PS: the guys at supercheap autp ask if i could get a product id number/serial as they couldn't find the pad on system :S

Super cheap won't be able to get the DS2500. That is the product ID. The ferodo racing pads aren't imported into australia by the same group that do the regular street pads...

If its 99% street use, then don't waste your money on the DS2500's anyway. TRW Lucas or EBC Green stuff are equally as good (all about 650 degrees rated), or if you were going to settle for Bendix Ultimate, then something like a QFM HPX, both at 550 will give you the same performance minus the rotor wear and dust of the former.

Just a quick comment if you are thinking Greenstuff, they are worthless for any track days as they disintegrate quickly, and EBC don't recommend them for heavier cars for track days themselves.

Also they throw a lot of dust which is annoying. I have them in the V8 Soarer as they were supposed to be low dust, but that was wrong. They are also spongy under the pedal and lack progressive feel.

Otherwise there are plenty of good pads, but I'll never buy EBC again.

My 20 cents

Track Only Pads

Hawke HT10, our race team pad of choice for ther last 5 years * *

Hawke DTC60, the new compound, slightly higher CoF with better initial bite than the HT10 * * *

Hawke DTC70, the new compound, even more initial bite than the DTC60, can be a proble if you don't have good driver control of brake modulation * *

On some cars we use a split (DTC70 front and DTC60 rear) to give more resistence to rear brake lock up on sharp application.

Ferodo DS3000, hard on rotors, not as good initial bite as HPC60, good high temperature pad *

Ferodo DS2500, not really a race compound, OK for wet races and cold weather, not as good at high temp as 3000's :D

Performance Friction Carbon Metallic * *

Our previous brake pad of choice, choose the compound carefully, but be aware of rotor build up.

Endless, Overpriced for what they are :D:(

Combo Track/Street Pads

Hawke HP Plus, the best track street compromise, can be noisy if the rest of the hardware is worn or they are not installed and run in correctly * *

Bendix Ultimate, very dusty, but good for light track work if the rest of the hardware is in tip top condition *

Ferodo 2000, better high temp control than Ultimates, still testing their road suitability *

Endless, way overpriced for what they are :P

Ferodo DS2500, sit in middle, an OK street pad and an OK circuit pad *

Street Only Pads

Bendix Ultimates, dusty but effective, need initial warming up on a cold winters day *

Ferodo 2000, better for sustained high temp work, still testing their overall road suitability *

Hawke HPS, the best high performance street pad, good life, can be noisy if the rest of the hardware is worn or they are not installed and run in correctly * *

Hawke LTC, the best low dust pad I have tried, still good braking power * * *

Cheers

Gary

  • 2 weeks later...

have you tried QFM pads Gary??

There is a group buy going for ADR approved braided lines and QFM pads, $330 or something like that, seemed like a real good deal but haven't heard of QFM before....

Heyy guys, its time for me to change/upgrade my breaks... I'm thinking to go for bendix ultiamate all around. However i want to change my stock disks as well... any help will be great. I'm from melb so if anyone knows any shops that are good, plz PM me their address and number. thankx

goto repco in moorabin or hoppers. they had the ultimates for the cheapest. it seems to vary heaps from store to store.

Thanks man.. I'm from hoppers anywayz so its around the corner for me... what do ur oppinion on cross drill disks?

Were to buy, how much and what i should get?

  • 2 weeks later...

I think the Ultimates are hard to judge. Personally have had 3 sets with no problems, 4th set is irritating me though - noise like nothing else. I think it's just their QC, they are mass-mass produced and they'd have variances. Meh. I get em under $90 so it's all good (too bad I can get DBA4000s for that price... they're not looking as good these days).

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. 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