Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ever since i got HKS wastegate actuators installed at the end of last year, there seem to be a boost spike (i think it is...)

no matter what boost stage i set it at (using power fc commander via boost controller option with power fc) the boost goes all the way up to 1.35bar+ and gets this MASSIVE B_A_N_G!!!!! and the car jerks forward (engine sounds like i am missing gear.. if u know what i mean.. but i am on the same gear for example if i am accelerating full on hard on 1st gear , i would hit max boost (1.2bar that i set it at ) around 4500-5000rpm and it just keeps going up and when it hits about 1.33-1.35 bar around 5500-6000rpm B-A-N-G !!

r the springs in the actuators too tight? too much tension? i believe they r adjustable so i can loosen the springs and make the actuator to actually HOLD the boost at maximum boost i set it at and keep it like that till red line?

and also another thing, no matter how low i set the boost , the minimum it will go is 1.1bar... and i really want low setting (like 0.9 bar or 1bar) for daily driving...

any suggestions??

thank you guys/girls... :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16998-hks-wastegate-actuator/
Share on other sites

Thanks nissaner,

I gave him a call and he said around $180. Did you end up fixing your problem?

I want to get a 14 psi actuator to alleviate some of the spike I am getting with my bleeder valve. Am I right in thinking an actuator will hep?

nissaner, I was under the impression that the HKS wastegate actuators have spring rates that are set - in your case, it sounds like you might be experienceing a bit of boost creep - what sort of turbo are you running - if it is a highflow, did they make the wastegate larger? I dont know about bang noises, could it be compressor surge?

Sorry if this isnt much help.

i didn't get the problem fixed yet coz josh (mech) is out of nsw for the weekend for his pit crew job... :P

i am only using stock / not high flowed... will take out the actuator next week and see what the problem is... (regarding to that BANG !! its not the noise it makes but its more of jerking/shaking of the car... imaginable or am i too crap at explaining? :P )

will post up the result next wk..

Hmm, well I dont know why you would be getting boost creep on stock trubos - perhaps the wastegate has been plumbed up to the boost solenoid wrong? or you have vacuum leak in pipes between solenoid and actuator?

Jurking/shaking could be turbos reaching surge limit - but I dont know what that is for the stock turbos turbos. If it is surge limit, you would hear it too, as the reversion through the compressor is usually noisy. Hopefully your mech can sort things out. Just have to keep your foot away from the carpet for a while :P

Sorry not much help again

Somewhere in the settings you should be able to set a rev limit and a boost cut. I'm not familiar with the Power FC but someone on this forum will know

On my EMC Duelsport I have set the soft rev limit at 7500and the hard limit at 7650 the boost cut I set to 1.35 bar 'cos my stock injectors were maxing out at 1.25 bar.

Nissaner,

In the Settings menu go to boost and there will be 4 settings and solonoid duty cycle. The boost you set (ie 1.2bar) is where the PFC sets the boost cut. You then use the duty cycle to bring the boost level up to what you want. So if you have the PFC set at 1.35bar, and the duty cycle brings boost up to 1.35bar then you will encounter boost cut...

See attachments...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
×
×
  • Create New...