Jump to content
SAU Community

Pricing

Whyallapunk

By Whyallapunk,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Whyallapunk Collaborator

Whyallapunk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nah sorry havn't swapped the air flow meter yet as don't have time because of school, and dad is usually busy. Another bloody problem now.... when the car sort of dies, the sterring locks up and the battery light flicks on. The steering becomes really stiff around that corner it dies on and is heaps hard to move. I almost crashed 2day. So i'll be driving a little AE86 around until it is fixed. Hopefully dad can get it done this weekend. Thanx for all the help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170424-pricing/page/2/#findComment-3151675
Share on other sites
pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted (edited)
Nah sorry havn't swapped the air flow meter yet as don't have time because of school, and dad is usually busy. Another bloody problem now.... when the car sort of dies, the sterring locks up and the battery light flicks on. The steering becomes really stiff around that corner it dies on and is heaps hard to move. I almost crashed 2day. So i'll be driving a little AE86 around until it is fixed. Hopefully dad can get it done this weekend. Thanx for all the help.

This sounds like the same problem. If your engine cuts out for whatever reason, you'll lose your power steering and the battery light will be on the same as it is when you click your key over to start the car in the morning (or say when you're running the radio without the engine on etc...its just telling you its using battery).

It sounds to me like it could be your Air Flow Meter. Rather than swap it, have you considered cleaning the contacts inside it (ie. in the middle of the piping, not the electrics itself). There are two little wires that hang down into the middle of the AFM pipe and a little thin wire runs between them which measures the amount of airflow through the intake piping. Sometimes these can get covered in stuff such as oil if you have an oiled air filter (like a K&N for example)...

Its an easy job - take your AFM off (might need to remove your airbox and also loosen the clip on the other side of the AFM so you can remove it from the piping). You'll then see the little wires clearly visible when you look through it. All I've done in the past is pour some methylated spirits (ie. metho) over these wires (do NOT touch them with your fingers or anything whatever you do) and then leave the AFM in the sun to dry out. You can also run a small amount of metho over the pins where the plug goes into on the side if you want, just to make for a better contact. If you dont have metho you can just use any non-residual contact cleaner. I just use metho cos its something I have in the cupboard.

If you leave the AFM in the sun afterwards it wont take very long to dry, say about 10 minutes? then just put it back in the car and job's done.

I had problems like loss of power and then power would be a bit stuttery - in my last car (nissan silvia turbo). Eventually the engine started dropping out on idle and it cut out a couple of times in traffic - very unsafe I agree with you. The car actually got so bad it wouldn't idle at all, but it turned out to be the AFM and replacing that solved my problem. Then I learned you could clean it, so try that first, it might save you a lot of money. :D

(apologies for the long post but I forgot to mention, if you're looking for a workshop - go Boostworx for sure. they may be booked up a little bit but thats BECAUSE they are that good)

Edited by pixel8r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170424-pricing/page/2/#findComment-3151890
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Or grab a can Electronic Cleaning Solvent from jaycar. Spray it plenty and by the time the afm is back on the car its all dry.

The jaycar stuff I've found strips the oil off better than the dicksmith gear.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...=&SUBCATID=

Its also GREAT for removing water off a motherboard quickly after you've washed it in the sink. lol

(damn dirty smokers; you should see what it does to your computer) :P

I usually hit it twice.. initially with the cleaning solvent then wash then hit it again to quickly remove the water.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170424-pricing/page/2/#findComment-3152347
Share on other sites
Race__24 Experienced

Race__24

Posted
Posted

Yeah, I can't complain with the work, the cost was also justified but i had no idea it was going to cost so much untill i went to pick my car up even after asking for estimates along the way. They put my current motor in but did everything while the engine was out rather than risk it. ie. waterpump, oilpump, new idler and tensioner, timing belt, rear main etc. etc. etc. etc.

But yeah, expencive :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170424-pricing/page/2/#findComment-3153941
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...