Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Isn't it funny, if it was one of us or anyone in a Jap import for that matter the media, police, Gov't & everyone else with a soap-box woulda been screaming "Hoon this, Ban that" etc etc

f**ken Hypocrites

Josh, matt, this isnt a thread over which one of ur cocks is 'bigger' (i use the word 'bigger' very losely) its about who was at fault, the car (LOL) or the driver

:laughing-smiley-014:

Nope, I saw your dads car this arvo on my way back from Noosa, he was heading towards Kawana from your house...

He over took a van and I wet my pants... :D

Oh really now. I'll have to inform him of his naughty driving :)

Ferrari's are faster than Porsche's.....F430's do 0-100 in 4.1, 911 GT3's do 0-100 in 4.3..on a circuit a 911 GT3 will probably be faster..but yea, Ferrari's have better power figures...they also weigh a touch more. Theres been mixed reviews but the F430 is commonly rated higher than the new Porsche 911 GT3...big price difference though, at least Porsches are relatively cheap.

I wouldnt call a porsche 911 GT2 cheap at $440,000.

I wouldnt call a porsche 911 GT2 cheap at $440,000.

I was going off the most expensive new porsche as per carsales.com which was a 911 997 Turbo which is 335k....still cheap in the luxury car world...in comparison to the most expenseive, lambo's, ferrari's etc...main point is most of Porsche's cars are around the 100-230k mark, whereas most other luxury cars dont even start near that price.

I was going off the most expensive new porsche as per carsales.com which was a 911 997 Turbo which is 335k....still cheap in the luxury car world...in comparison to the most expenseive, lambo's, ferrari's etc...main point is most of Porsche's cars are around the 100-230k mark, whereas most other luxury cars dont even start near that price.

Right right right. :)

I was going off the most expensive new porsche as per carsales.com which was a 911 997 Turbo which is 335k....still cheap in the luxury car world...in comparison to the most expenseive, lambo's, ferrari's etc...main point is most of Porsche's cars are around the 100-230k mark, whereas most other luxury cars dont even start near that price.

We're not talking "super car/extremely rare" sale price's here. Most of the more "common" Ferrari's are around the $300k+ (resale) which that 997 price is or it's an auto... In reality only one or two AMG's only come close in that price range, BMW M series don't even rank in that price range. I duno if I would rank Lambo's with Ferrari and Porsche, the are much more of an Exotic.

If you wana start talking more rare ones, last time I spoke with Gemballa, there "GT700" Cayenne wasn't far off $600k or something, road cars built by them are all Dependant on what spec it is, even the 911 GT1 (road legal version) you'll be lucky to pick up for Enzo money these days.

Older 911's and base newer ones are in the price you mention, dads black 911 was $100k even, but thats had a concourse restoration and it's only a 1990. He had a look at a 993 Twin Turbo when he was in Sydney last month for $210k at a dealership and it was pure shit/daily driven kays.. Get you pay for..

hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

ahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah

hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

ahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

No wait wait let me finish

hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

ahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah

hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

ahahahahahahahahahaha ok bs

Edited by shnaped_second

:thumbsup: How can most people ignore other possible variables of deceleration and jump to the conclusion? What happen to road surface, oil, water, dust, tyres contacts, reaction time at lunch time etc :laughing-smiley-014: good point..

silverbulletR33 maybe he read the signs..." Parking at rear" :domokun:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...