Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just been reading up on compressor surge all afternoon particularly in relation to low rpm on an RB20. i have dug up some stuff on sau regarding this topic when incorrect wheel configurations in highflows can cause a compressor surge at low rpm, what im unclear about is would this only occur at full boost or can it also occur whilst building boost? and how?

as i understand from what i have read is that the compressor wheel will push x amount of air out and if the pressure between the turbo and engine is greater then what its pushing then it will be forced back thru the compressor causing surge.

now how would this occur in a low rpm situation when the boost pressure isnt that high?

what causes the engine to restrict this compressed air entering the combustion chamber?

could an incorrectly setup engine cause surge or is it all to do with a spiking turbo?

i have theories on incorrect inlet cam lift duration or timing....but im not a qualified mechanic or an engineer and could totally be off the mark so opinions would be great!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171149-compressor-surge/
Share on other sites

surge typically occurs when you start to build boost, the blow off valve is not going to vent at low pressures, so the air gets pushed out the compressor. can happen at 0psi, can happen at 20psi, pending if u how tight / if u even have a blow off valve

does that help?

Edited by InterCooL
surge typically occurs when you start to build boost, the blow off valve is not going to vent at low pressures, so the air gets pushed out the compressor. can happen at 0psi, can happen at 20psi, pending if u how tight / if u even have a blow off valve

does that help?

it does clarify that point but im also trying to figure out where the problem occurs in the engine. as positive boost builds it should be drawn/forced into the chambers so what would cause it to bank up and surge?

in my particular case the turbo is a constant and 2 different engines are the variables...

edit: i should add that im refering to during the spool phase... not off the throttle BOV type scenario.

edit: i should add that im refering to during the spool phase... not off the throttle BOV type scenario.

you're getting surge when you are spooling up? :)

you cannot be doing that. you must be mixing 'surge' with something else. but i cant imagine what

yer im really confused...

I just cant understand how 2 RB20's can behave soooo extremely different with the same tune and mods hanging off em.

just relating everything i can find to the situation.... SAU is killing my brain cells

--END THREAD--

you're getting surge when you are spooling up? :)

you cannot be doing that. you must be mixing 'surge' with something else. but i cant imagine what

Yes you can have that.

You can have compressor surge as you build boost.

Generally due to a comp wheel that's too large to the rear. Can happen in low RPM definitely as boost is created.

Basically the comp wheel is flowing more air that the motor wants at that stage, once you overcome this its ok usually

i notice compressor surge on my r33 with a plain bearing hiflow, Front wheel was off a isuzu truck. Old skool design To4

what appeared to be happening, is that the turbo was generating way too much air that what it should of, at start of spool phase.

This was at 5psi, and then we believe the bov started to pulsate, pushing air through the plumb back pipe into the intake, then too my afm.

The afm recognised more amount of air, getting pushed through, so it dumped more fuel into the engine. I didn't notice this surging when i have the standard airbox on with my standard afm, as it mighten of not of been as sensitive as the z32afm, and the apexi pod filter being able to suck ???

I didn't get around to fix this problem, but i believe it was either relocating the afm to another position, change the bov to atmo, or putting a stronger spring in my BOV.

Then again these ideas could not of worked either.

I have now changed turbo setup, so see what happens. (also going to put a sharp bend in for my intake pipe)

Yo, IZ32

Please visit Garrett's website:

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bo_tech103.html

This is all pretty advanced stuff, just read through and filter out most off it and learn what you need to know about Surge. There is a few paragraphs about a 1/3 down the page.

This should help explain it a lot.

Slim

Yes you can have that.

You can have compressor surge as you build boost.

Generally due to a comp wheel that's too large to the rear. Can happen in low RPM definitely as boost is created.

Basically the comp wheel is flowing more air that the motor wants at that stage, once you overcome this its ok usually

i had a gt2876r 0.86.

massively oversized compressor relative to the exhaust wheel. renown for it. i hated the setup. but i never had any strange induction / surge noises

not saying its not possible, but if a gt2876r doesnt give you it, then you're not going to be getting it with a hks2530 that iz32 is using?

Happens with big (relatively speaking) boost, at low rpm. If you look at a compressor map for a turbo, you'll usually see a dotted "Surge line" running up the L.H.S. of the map. This is where the compressor can't push any more pressure at that flow-rate, and stalls (like an aeroplane wing stalling, or a boat propeller cavitating). It stops pumping & sheds a tonne of boost pressure and (turbo)rpm, until it can re-establish compressor flow & start building shaft rpm & boost again.

If U keep the clog in, this keeps happening in a cycle, and U get compressor surge. Wind down the boost at low rpm, or back off the throttle when U hear it hissing REAL loud just before it stalls (and makes the ssssSSSSSCCHHEEW sound as it stalls the compressor). Good luck :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...