Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had the car tuned at CV Performance on Saturday morning...

The car has been tuned to run on 10psi boost where it made 189.6rwkw!!!

(alot better than the 114rwkw effort at AUTOSALON)

Then wound the boost up to 13psi and hit 203.4rwkw!!!

I now need to get a custom dump pipe and a high flow cat - CAN ANYONE HELP???

Next step is to see what sort of time i can make at WSID

*Will post up pick of print out soon*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Basti,

Lol, the 114rwkw at AUTOSALON was coz i had massive big range fuel cut and i was miss firing bad...

But, mods include...

- 3" exhaust w/ 6" cannon 4" tip

- Front mount intercooler 300x600x76mm - JustJap

- Cold air intake

- Pod Filter

- SSQ BOV

- NGK race spark plugs - instead of having a pin for spark, they have a big flat area! gapped to 0.7mm

- GFB manual boost contoller

- Apexi SAFC forgot that one!!! whoops!!!

- Shell V-power Racing!

Thats all performance wise....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158342
Share on other sites

Basti,

Lol, the 114rwkw at AUTOSALON was coz i had massive big range fuel cut and i was miss firing bad...

But, mods include...

- 3" exhaust w/ 6" cannon 4" tip

- Front mount intercooler 300x50076mm - JustJap

- Cold air intake

- Pod Filter

- SSQ BOV

- NGK race spark plugs - instead of having a pin for spark, they have a big flat area! gapped to 0.7mm

- GFB manual boost contoller

- Shell V-power Racing!

Thats all performance wise....

300x50076mm... daamn thats a big intercooler! :whistling:

From what I've seen the spark plugs with the big flat area are the copper type. The Iridium are usually the pin type. I could be wrong but those race plugs sound like the regular copper plugs? Anyway if you need to gap them down to 0.7mm to cure your misfire then expect a coil pack replacement in the near future :rolleyes:

Nice power from the mods though!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158512
Share on other sites

And in regards to replacing coil packs, i won't have a problem with miss firing as the spark plugs are more than cable of running the car with the standard turbo.

I will only need to replace coil packs say if i do a high flow and start pushing for close to 300rwkw or so...

If u run the right plugs at the right gap, and the right sort of fuel, say good buy to miss firing!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158656
Share on other sites

0.7 just seems a bit too much.. thats all!! no matter what plugs they are!!

0.75 seems alright..

Anyways if the cars happy, then thats all too it. .

Which safc do you have?

Please post a dyno graph.. Keen to see how the curve looks like!!

btw gd kw reading.. congrats!!

i was getting 183kw without any safc or tune on 10psi.. I had a nice curve, but i might invest in an safc soon.. Since i can get a hold of a power fc due to huge price..

Edited by siddr20
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158671
Share on other sites

Speaking of gapping sparkies,.....I bought a set of NGK Iridiums and wanted to gap it same as my old sparkies, but looking at the back of the packaging, it said "DO NOT REGAP THE SPARK PLUGS AS......"....so I left it at god know what gap (most likely 0.9 or 1) is that ok??

I'm not getting any misfire at that gap range.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158819
Share on other sites

Speaking of gapping sparkies,.....I bought a set of NGK Iridiums and wanted to gap it same as my old sparkies, but looking at the back of the packaging, it said "DO NOT REGAP THE SPARK PLUGS AS......"....so I left it at god know what gap (most likely 0.9 or 1) is that ok??

I'm not getting any misfire at that gap range.

James, if you have a look at the part number for the spark plugs, it tells you what the standard gap is. For example, NGK's BKR5EIX-11's have a 1.1mm gap, it's the last two numbers that tell you what the gap is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158839
Share on other sites

YO DR1FT-SPEC....

picture224df1.th.jpgpicture230em5.th.jpgpicture234cq7.th.jpg

:P BASS IN YA FACE!

also, i can help you with the custom dump pipe if you like... i know some top notch people...

Hey homo-spec lol...

My boot is still going to look better than yours at S'n'S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158904
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...