Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had the car tuned at CV Performance on Saturday morning...

The car has been tuned to run on 10psi boost where it made 189.6rwkw!!!

(alot better than the 114rwkw effort at AUTOSALON)

Then wound the boost up to 13psi and hit 203.4rwkw!!!

I now need to get a custom dump pipe and a high flow cat - CAN ANYONE HELP???

Next step is to see what sort of time i can make at WSID

*Will post up pick of print out soon*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Basti,

Lol, the 114rwkw at AUTOSALON was coz i had massive big range fuel cut and i was miss firing bad...

But, mods include...

- 3" exhaust w/ 6" cannon 4" tip

- Front mount intercooler 300x600x76mm - JustJap

- Cold air intake

- Pod Filter

- SSQ BOV

- NGK race spark plugs - instead of having a pin for spark, they have a big flat area! gapped to 0.7mm

- GFB manual boost contoller

- Apexi SAFC forgot that one!!! whoops!!!

- Shell V-power Racing!

Thats all performance wise....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158342
Share on other sites

Basti,

Lol, the 114rwkw at AUTOSALON was coz i had massive big range fuel cut and i was miss firing bad...

But, mods include...

- 3" exhaust w/ 6" cannon 4" tip

- Front mount intercooler 300x50076mm - JustJap

- Cold air intake

- Pod Filter

- SSQ BOV

- NGK race spark plugs - instead of having a pin for spark, they have a big flat area! gapped to 0.7mm

- GFB manual boost contoller

- Shell V-power Racing!

Thats all performance wise....

300x50076mm... daamn thats a big intercooler! :whistling:

From what I've seen the spark plugs with the big flat area are the copper type. The Iridium are usually the pin type. I could be wrong but those race plugs sound like the regular copper plugs? Anyway if you need to gap them down to 0.7mm to cure your misfire then expect a coil pack replacement in the near future :rolleyes:

Nice power from the mods though!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158512
Share on other sites

And in regards to replacing coil packs, i won't have a problem with miss firing as the spark plugs are more than cable of running the car with the standard turbo.

I will only need to replace coil packs say if i do a high flow and start pushing for close to 300rwkw or so...

If u run the right plugs at the right gap, and the right sort of fuel, say good buy to miss firing!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158656
Share on other sites

0.7 just seems a bit too much.. thats all!! no matter what plugs they are!!

0.75 seems alright..

Anyways if the cars happy, then thats all too it. .

Which safc do you have?

Please post a dyno graph.. Keen to see how the curve looks like!!

btw gd kw reading.. congrats!!

i was getting 183kw without any safc or tune on 10psi.. I had a nice curve, but i might invest in an safc soon.. Since i can get a hold of a power fc due to huge price..

Edited by siddr20
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158671
Share on other sites

Speaking of gapping sparkies,.....I bought a set of NGK Iridiums and wanted to gap it same as my old sparkies, but looking at the back of the packaging, it said "DO NOT REGAP THE SPARK PLUGS AS......"....so I left it at god know what gap (most likely 0.9 or 1) is that ok??

I'm not getting any misfire at that gap range.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158819
Share on other sites

Speaking of gapping sparkies,.....I bought a set of NGK Iridiums and wanted to gap it same as my old sparkies, but looking at the back of the packaging, it said "DO NOT REGAP THE SPARK PLUGS AS......"....so I left it at god know what gap (most likely 0.9 or 1) is that ok??

I'm not getting any misfire at that gap range.

James, if you have a look at the part number for the spark plugs, it tells you what the standard gap is. For example, NGK's BKR5EIX-11's have a 1.1mm gap, it's the last two numbers that tell you what the gap is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158839
Share on other sites

YO DR1FT-SPEC....

picture224df1.th.jpgpicture230em5.th.jpgpicture234cq7.th.jpg

:P BASS IN YA FACE!

also, i can help you with the custom dump pipe if you like... i know some top notch people...

Hey homo-spec lol...

My boot is still going to look better than yours at S'n'S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171238-finally-tuned/#findComment-3158904
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...