Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had enough of my apexi springs (yours for $200 if you want them, great for drifting).

I'm deciding between whiteline or king springs (lows) as a replacement. I'll be using them with my existing bilstein shocks.

I realise the kings are progressive whereas the whiteline are linear on the front.

Anyway, I just want to know the rates of each spring, front and rear?

Also if you have an opinion on which is better, feel free to post it here.

Thanks

Greg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171264-king-vs-whiteline-springs/
Share on other sites

If I remember correctly, Gary (SK) said the front Whiteline spring is 165lb/in (2.92kg/mm) and the King spring is ~175lb/in (3.1kg/mm).

Dont know about rears though.

I'd say the Whiteline one is the better spring though as it's cold wound compared to the hot wound King Spring.

Edited by salad

Yes, you can swap them.

Any of the major spring manufacturers will be able to supply replacements as they are likely a 65ID spring so very common.

You will need to take into consideration your current spring rates, front and rear weight and range of adjustablility when getting springs with lower rates, particularly if your coil overs dont have base height adjustment, or if you already have the spring seat up near the top of the thread, as the weight of the car will compress them further, so you will need to either get a longer spring, or wind the spring seat up a bit more (if you have enough adjustment).

Scandew: Get a tape measure out and measure the ID. If you cant get in there to do that, measure the OD and then subtract the wire diametre twice. Find the wire diameter by sliding open ended spanners over the top till you find the right one. Does look like it'd be something around 60-65mm ID though as that's the norm for rectangular coils.

R DITRY 3: I've seen SK say a few times that they are cold wound. I know just going by what people say on the internet isn't the smartest thing, but I think SK has a fair idea about all the Whiteline stuff.

Edited by salad

The Whiteline R32/33/34 springs are definitely cold wound on a hydraulic, computer controlled coil winder (the same as Eibach, Jamex, H&R, Bilstein etc). This gives a superior/more consistent result than hot wound coils. I chose the Whiteline springs for the Group Buy because of this quality/consistency, plus they had rates that better suited the rest of the kit. The R32/33/34 front springs are linear and the rear springs are progressive, like the Kings variety, they are progressive to keep the coils trapped at full droop.

For the record, a linear front spring is far superior in driver feel than a progressive, which gives differing results depending on weight transfer and therefore inconsistent steering feedback. I wouldn't use a true progressive spring in the front of a Skyline.

:rofl: cheers :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...