Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, I'm a bit on the drunk side, so bear with me. After about 15min of solid debating. No one between my buddies and I can descide on the reasoning behind the fact that the brake pedal in automatic cars, is more than twice the size of the pedal in manual transmission cars. It seems to me they could have easily just added a larger foot rest, or maybe a place to hide a firearm. Instead they just made the pedal really damn big. Hopefully someone can tell me why the pedal is so large.

Also, as long as were at it. Im curious to see what peoples ideas are as to something we could put in the spot where the clutch normally is, instead of just making the brake pedal larger. I personally think a toaster, and a place for butter and/or jelly would be an excellent thing to put there.

Edited by Rabid
  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Your drunk at 5.55pm on a Monday night, then come on here asking that question?

Anyway, good question. Google has NOTHING. What I find funny is when the pedal has 'brake' writen across it. So maybe thats it. It wouldnt fit on a manual sized pedal.

But I think auto pedals should be even size. So like the accelerator is as big as the brake. So they can both be bigger.

It's so grandma always knows where to stomp in case of emergency.

LMAO On that note, an old lady today almost got herself killed today, i was turning right and she was pulling away from the kerb and instead of accelerating to get out of my way, she hit the brake and i almost went into her door. We seriously need some kind of basic crash avoidance course because people have no f**king idea what to do in emergencies. I have a mate who pulled his handbrake at 90km/h because his car stalled and he had no brakes, he paniced, pulled it really hard and ended up in a pole. Ive done a driving course, next on my list is CAMS license :thumbsup: man i cant wait!

How about this answer:

The brake pedal gets used more in automatic cars - therefore larger pedal to prevent it wearing out?

In manual cars most people gear down instead of braking hence less wear on the pedal, therefore smaller pedal.

makes sense to me :thumbsup:

Your drunk at 5.55pm on a Monday night, then come on here asking that question?

Anyway, good question. Google has NOTHING. What I find funny is when the pedal has 'brake' writen across it. So maybe thats it. It wouldnt fit on a manual sized pedal.

But I think auto pedals should be even size. So like the accelerator is as big as the brake. So they can both be bigger.

haha that reminds me of my old school caretaker's buggy thing. it had two pedals too. a big green one that said GO and a big red one that said STOP.

maybe the pedal is bigger because us auto drivers have bigger feet. and you know what they say bout big feet.... :thumbsup:

Your drunk at 5.55pm on a Monday night

I'm east coast, United States. It was more like 3 or 4am for me, on Sunday night.

and you know what they say bout big feet...

Large shoes?

I still think there should be a toaster in that spot instead. I can't tell you how many times I have been driving, thinking to myself "I could really go for some toast right now.. or a pop tart.. or toaster strudel", only to be disappointed by the fact that I have a clutch pedal instead of a toaster. Dodgey engineering for sure.

They made it that big so you can put both feet on the pedal, it's called toe toe braking, only the best racing drivers use this method.

I thought when you put both feet on it, it was called 'OHH SHIT!!' braking..

A wider brake pedal would make it easier to left foot brake, as you don't have to put your two feet as close together and possibly foul each other.

Not saying its the reason, just suggesting it as a reason.

Has anyone driven some of the newer auto's that has a foot brake instead of a handbrake? For those that don't know about it, they install this foot brake/pedal exactly where the clutch is on a manual car.

Has anyone subconsciously tried to clutch an auto and hit this foot brake before?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...