Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi drift_me_silly, you asked "q....if r33 auto diff fitted to r32 with r 25 box....would fifth at 100k's drop down to around 2ooorpm?..."

As far as I know the Auto R33 diff and the Manual R32 diff are the same ratio (4.363 to 1). So I don't understand the question...

The Series 1 R33 clutch (push type) is the same as the R32 clutch. The Series 11 R33 and R34 is different (pull type). We have used the same OS Giken twin plate in an R32 GTR, R32 GTST and S1 R33 GTST. Fits straight in. Hope that answered your question.

The Trust 6 speed has a close ratio set of gears whereas the R34 GTT has a wider ratio set. So not comparing apples with apples. Any car with any engine would be faster accelerating with the close ratio gearset than the wider ratio.

Hope that helps

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My R32 GTSt has a flywheel and clutch meant for an R32 GTR, so whatever the differences, they don't stop you fitting/switching.

... and as for fitting an Rb25 behind an RB20, im not having any trouble with my box at them moment. (im guessing i have between 135-150rwkws) At what sort of rear wheel power figures do they start having troubles. And what troubles surface first?

Hi guys, the starter motor bolts up in the same spot, so the flywheels must be the same diameter. The bolt pattern on the crankshafts are the same. All the gearboxes have the same size and splined input shaft. So if you consider the package (flywheel, pressure and clutch plate), then all Skylines with the push type actuation are interchangeable.

RB20 flywheels are a bit lighter than RB25's and the clutch friction surface is smaller in diameter. So I don't think you could use an RB20 flywheel with an RB25 pressure and clutch plate, not without machining anyway.

Change the lot all together though and there are no problems.

Hope that clarifies further

I was looking at bot gearboxes today and i removed the speed sensor from the rb25 box and it was very long, about 4inces, then looking at the rb20 box the sensor is more towards the back of the box and i could not be any longer than about 2inches, i couldnt take it out as i would then have to replace the oil but i just wanted to know if there was any special trick to swaping them over as the rb25 one is long with a red gear on the end and it appears to be all in one piece.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...