Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I currently have a RB25DET, PowerFC, GTR FMIC, High flow cat, greddy plenum with Q45 TB, 13psi on standard turbz and big exhaust. Everything else is pretty much stock.

Currently im at 217kw, what will i need for 350??

Im thinking injectors, bigger turbo... what else?

Its in a S13 so im not sure how much room there would be for a bigass turbo and it has a RB20 gearbox (twin plate clutch), i hear these are only good for around 270kw before they self destruct.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172633-required-mods-for-350rwkw/
Share on other sites

RB25 box - $1500

Rebuild, head work etc - $6000-7000

Turbo - $1700

Manifold - $1000

Ext Gate - $700

Injectors - $800

AFM - $300

Plus all the labour to fit it all, new hoses, clamps, gaskets, dump pipes, coils etc - $3000

Thats 16k or there abouts.

Then there is the diff, suspension, brakes etc. So add on around another 8k there.

Oh and a clutch, 1200.

And no doubt other things i have missed aswell.

Simply put, power is not cheap. The more you want the more its going to cost.

Reliably and getting it to the ground so you can actually drive the car, your looking at around 25k to do it properly.

As you basically have a stock car, you've gotta change everything

Nice, might lower my power goal slightly then :)

A well tuned responsive car at 290kw at the wheels is a better drive

than a car that pushes 350kw does not get any traction on lift and goes on like a pig.

It is about the package...not the power....especially if the tuner gets his results at 1.5bar+ and 8000rpm

using nitro.....lol...a bit over the top...but you all know what I mean

I would suggest to you...a new turbo....a set of cams...and a good tune for street work......

I already knew power costs money...

But im sure your over Exaggerating :)

Oh also have an upgraded fuel pump, im thinking of spending around 3 - 4k on it to get some decent numbers. Was thinking a hi flow and injectors.

Edited by sicrb25

Im really not exaggerating, if anything im actually being conservative in some of the estimates.

If you only have 4k, then all you can do is a hi-flow and injectors and thats about it.

tuning will eat up the rest and you'll have around $500 or so change to spend on fuel and whatever :)

I killed mine with 270rwkw with my RB25.

It lasted about 4 months and was in good condition prior. I'd given it a good workout @ the drags on 3 separate occasions.

Roy with the RB20 has made 250rwkw and circuit raced his heaps.

I would say the added torque/traction i had with my setup killed it faster and thats why Roy's car/box is still going.

Plus circuit/drag is different aswell

So... with a 25, the hi-flow will be pushing the boxes limits if you intend to do any type of drag racing.

Circuit you might find its ok

A well tuned responsive car at 290kw at the wheels is a better drive

than a car that pushes 350kw does not get any traction on lift and goes on like a pig.

It is about the package...not the power....especially if the tuner gets his results at 1.5bar+ and 8000rpm

using nitro.....lol...a bit over the top...but you all know what I mean

I would suggest to you...a new turbo....a set of cams...and a good tune for street work......

yeah i learnt that with my FD rx7.... did a crazy build up 350-odd kw then realised i liked the 300 far better.

for me the ultimate setup on a rb25 is evrything you already got plus one thing.... a TD06SH-25g kit. This kit has proved on std internals to run mid 10's on slicks (CREATD MSA manual r33) and mid 11's on street radials (andrew manual r33 from autobarn frankston... now wearing a T88 and transbrake tho :) ).

The boxes limits or the engines limits, if its the boxes i dunno where the hell you got that from since theres alot of people running alot more power through it and still going strong, the engine on the other hand is a gamble at most.

Cheers.

Plus little bit of an equation anything under 300 rwkws or just on is close to max limitations of a good reliable streeter any more well as stated you budget doubles in price just alone for handling tyres and fuel

Cheers

A

yeah i learnt that with my FD rx7.... did a crazy build up 350-odd kw then realised i liked the 300 far better.

for me the ultimate setup on a rb25 is evrything you already got plus one thing.... a TD06SH-25g kit. This kit has proved on std internals to run mid 10's on slicks (CREATD MSA manual r33) and mid 11's on street radials (andrew manual r33 from autobarn frankston... now wearing a T88 and transbrake tho :) ).

Something a little like this???

R32 Gtst:

Engine: Rb25det conversion The internals are far from stock and top secret, Flowed head/port polish, HKS 275 camshafts, HKS head gasket, Trust Stainless top mount manifold, Trust 50mm waste-gate, Trust front mount intercooler, Trust Oil cooler and relocation filter kit, GReddy Type-R BOV plumbed backed, Nismo 820cc injectors, HKS F-con Pro V.... im sure ive missed a few bits n pieces

Suspension And Running Gear: Rebuilt Rb25det gearbox, brand new twin plate OS clutch, Nismo 2way mechanical diff, Tein adjustable coilovers, Tein Adjustable Castor Rods, Tein Tie Rod Ends, 17inch Genuine 3 piece Nismo rims.

R32015.jpg

Pictures from a year ago, its now got a full gtr intake setup including ITB's, 490rwhp @ 1.2bar, we actually dont know what the turbo is, its one of three items, Trust Td06-25g, old school trust td07s or a t67-25g, whatever it is, it does the job :(

Due for a retune in about 3 - 4 months time, its in at the shop atm having engine and box pulled for more work and full paintjob. Ohhh and 11.4 on crappy streets and 10.8 on crappy slicks, also my first time driving a car with some decent power at the drags, im more into drift... so you hit the nail on the head with your proported claims in the previous post imo.

Edited by `nigno

not to stray off topic but is that josh's (NismoBoy) old r32 he had?

About the gearboxs lasting. I would be more inclined to think that circuit racing would put more stress, and temperature through a box then drag racing would, as its over an exteneded time. In a 20min race you do more high rpm gearchanges, more throttle application(on/off) and temps skyrocket cause your doing that for so long. Only thing you dont get is the initial force on everything from the launch as there isnt as much rubber layed down on the start/finish line like found at a dragstrip. 370rwkws killed our rb25gbox at the track after a 1.5 years of racing, 4th gear. Application will determine most things. I would stick to a conserative power if your keeping the rb20box.

Edited by r33_racer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...