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Hey Guys,

I currently have a RB25DET, PowerFC, GTR FMIC, High flow cat, greddy plenum with Q45 TB, 13psi on standard turbz and big exhaust. Everything else is pretty much stock.

Currently im at 217kw, what will i need for 350??

Im thinking injectors, bigger turbo... what else?

Its in a S13 so im not sure how much room there would be for a bigass turbo and it has a RB20 gearbox (twin plate clutch), i hear these are only good for around 270kw before they self destruct.

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RB25 box - $1500

Rebuild, head work etc - $6000-7000

Turbo - $1700

Manifold - $1000

Ext Gate - $700

Injectors - $800

AFM - $300

Plus all the labour to fit it all, new hoses, clamps, gaskets, dump pipes, coils etc - $3000

Thats 16k or there abouts.

Then there is the diff, suspension, brakes etc. So add on around another 8k there.

Oh and a clutch, 1200.

And no doubt other things i have missed aswell.

Simply put, power is not cheap. The more you want the more its going to cost.

Reliably and getting it to the ground so you can actually drive the car, your looking at around 25k to do it properly.

As you basically have a stock car, you've gotta change everything

Nice, might lower my power goal slightly then :)

A well tuned responsive car at 290kw at the wheels is a better drive

than a car that pushes 350kw does not get any traction on lift and goes on like a pig.

It is about the package...not the power....especially if the tuner gets his results at 1.5bar+ and 8000rpm

using nitro.....lol...a bit over the top...but you all know what I mean

I would suggest to you...a new turbo....a set of cams...and a good tune for street work......

I already knew power costs money...

But im sure your over Exaggerating :)

Oh also have an upgraded fuel pump, im thinking of spending around 3 - 4k on it to get some decent numbers. Was thinking a hi flow and injectors.

Edited by sicrb25

Im really not exaggerating, if anything im actually being conservative in some of the estimates.

If you only have 4k, then all you can do is a hi-flow and injectors and thats about it.

tuning will eat up the rest and you'll have around $500 or so change to spend on fuel and whatever :)

I killed mine with 270rwkw with my RB25.

It lasted about 4 months and was in good condition prior. I'd given it a good workout @ the drags on 3 separate occasions.

Roy with the RB20 has made 250rwkw and circuit raced his heaps.

I would say the added torque/traction i had with my setup killed it faster and thats why Roy's car/box is still going.

Plus circuit/drag is different aswell

So... with a 25, the hi-flow will be pushing the boxes limits if you intend to do any type of drag racing.

Circuit you might find its ok

A well tuned responsive car at 290kw at the wheels is a better drive

than a car that pushes 350kw does not get any traction on lift and goes on like a pig.

It is about the package...not the power....especially if the tuner gets his results at 1.5bar+ and 8000rpm

using nitro.....lol...a bit over the top...but you all know what I mean

I would suggest to you...a new turbo....a set of cams...and a good tune for street work......

yeah i learnt that with my FD rx7.... did a crazy build up 350-odd kw then realised i liked the 300 far better.

for me the ultimate setup on a rb25 is evrything you already got plus one thing.... a TD06SH-25g kit. This kit has proved on std internals to run mid 10's on slicks (CREATD MSA manual r33) and mid 11's on street radials (andrew manual r33 from autobarn frankston... now wearing a T88 and transbrake tho :) ).

The boxes limits or the engines limits, if its the boxes i dunno where the hell you got that from since theres alot of people running alot more power through it and still going strong, the engine on the other hand is a gamble at most.

Cheers.

Plus little bit of an equation anything under 300 rwkws or just on is close to max limitations of a good reliable streeter any more well as stated you budget doubles in price just alone for handling tyres and fuel

Cheers

A

yeah i learnt that with my FD rx7.... did a crazy build up 350-odd kw then realised i liked the 300 far better.

for me the ultimate setup on a rb25 is evrything you already got plus one thing.... a TD06SH-25g kit. This kit has proved on std internals to run mid 10's on slicks (CREATD MSA manual r33) and mid 11's on street radials (andrew manual r33 from autobarn frankston... now wearing a T88 and transbrake tho :) ).

Something a little like this???

R32 Gtst:

Engine: Rb25det conversion The internals are far from stock and top secret, Flowed head/port polish, HKS 275 camshafts, HKS head gasket, Trust Stainless top mount manifold, Trust 50mm waste-gate, Trust front mount intercooler, Trust Oil cooler and relocation filter kit, GReddy Type-R BOV plumbed backed, Nismo 820cc injectors, HKS F-con Pro V.... im sure ive missed a few bits n pieces

Suspension And Running Gear: Rebuilt Rb25det gearbox, brand new twin plate OS clutch, Nismo 2way mechanical diff, Tein adjustable coilovers, Tein Adjustable Castor Rods, Tein Tie Rod Ends, 17inch Genuine 3 piece Nismo rims.

R32015.jpg

Pictures from a year ago, its now got a full gtr intake setup including ITB's, 490rwhp @ 1.2bar, we actually dont know what the turbo is, its one of three items, Trust Td06-25g, old school trust td07s or a t67-25g, whatever it is, it does the job :(

Due for a retune in about 3 - 4 months time, its in at the shop atm having engine and box pulled for more work and full paintjob. Ohhh and 11.4 on crappy streets and 10.8 on crappy slicks, also my first time driving a car with some decent power at the drags, im more into drift... so you hit the nail on the head with your proported claims in the previous post imo.

Edited by `nigno

not to stray off topic but is that josh's (NismoBoy) old r32 he had?

About the gearboxs lasting. I would be more inclined to think that circuit racing would put more stress, and temperature through a box then drag racing would, as its over an exteneded time. In a 20min race you do more high rpm gearchanges, more throttle application(on/off) and temps skyrocket cause your doing that for so long. Only thing you dont get is the initial force on everything from the launch as there isnt as much rubber layed down on the start/finish line like found at a dragstrip. 370rwkws killed our rb25gbox at the track after a 1.5 years of racing, 4th gear. Application will determine most things. I would stick to a conserative power if your keeping the rb20box.

Edited by r33_racer

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