Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need parts numebr for

R34 Bayside Blue Eyelids

Cheers

Part No# F2410-AA010. but i would expect them to be quite dificult to get a hold of now. better off tring to get a colour like white (QM1 and just paint them in TV2)

i know this will be hard to find i would imagine but im after the part no. for a brake master cylinder from a wgnc34 autech 260rs stagea series 1 if possible (i think s1, and s2 is the same)?

i have 34 brembos on the stagea and need a brake booster to suit but i found out 33gtr and 34gtr use different masters i cant see why if they are the same brakes? hopefully the autech one will be the correct one.

thanks

would like a vin to confirm but fairly sure the part No# is 46010-0V600.

Your car is a 4WD with a RB26DETT correct? hence making it a AWC34

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey All.

Does anyone know the part number for the FRONT and REAR tie rod ends for a R33 GTS-T 1995 S1. Mine are shot and the guy at nissan ere has NFI. If i get the part number for him then maybe i will get more joy out of the nissan dealership. I am also considering aftermarket parts too. anyone suggest a good option?

Any help appreciated. :rofl:

what an awesome thread - well done guys!!!

i am after the part number for the inner door moulds which sits on the inside of the door trim & wipes the inside of the passenger/drivers window (for r32gtr)...i found this so want to know if this is correct:

R32INMOULDLHS-8083504U00

R32INMOULDRHS-8083404U00

Hi there,

I need the part numbers for the front plastic inner guards on a 96 R33 GTS-T. The ones that I need wrap around underneath the front bumper bar and intercooler. I need numbers for both sides please.

Thanks, Pete.

Part NO. 63842 15u000 RH

Part NO. 63843 15U000 LH

what an awesome thread - well done guys!!!

i am after the part number for the inner door moulds which sits on the inside of the door trim & wipes the inside of the passenger/drivers window (for r32gtr)...i found this so want to know if this is correct:

R32INMOULDLHS-8083504U00

R32INMOULDRHS-8083404U00

MARKO R1. SOUNDS GOOD TO ME I CAME UP WITH THE SAME NUMBERS

Hey All.

Does anyone know the part number for the FRONT and REAR tie rod ends for a R33 GTS-T 1995 S1. Mine are shot and the guy at nissan ere has NFI. If i get the part number for him then maybe i will get more joy out of the nissan dealership. I am also considering aftermarket parts too. anyone suggest a good option?

Any help appreciated. :thumbsup:

PART NO. 48520 15U26 LHF & RHF

PART NO. 55725 0C800 RHR & LHR

Hi,

I need the part number for the front centre mesh grill section between the headlights for a R34 GT-T, the NISMO version.

Thanks, Carey.

there are 6 different option need to know paint code. also year model an month to make sure

there are 6 different option need to know paint code. also year model an month to make sure

back again, unfortunately there is no paint code sticker on the car. so the only info i have is year model is 06/98 colour is white (r34 gt-t). hope that gives some clues .

Kind regards

Carey

Hi guys,

I search and look for the original partnr. of the shocks (front and rear) for a skyline r33 gtst from 1995.

Vin.nr. ECR33-055072

I hope that someone can help me with this. :nyaanyaa:

Regards Mindert

Edited by boro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that's a fair assumption. I'm presuming they call them solid lifters as they have no moving parts like hydro lifters. 
    • I believe you're confusing WMI with water injection. Looking at that graph, the 93aki+WMI car is making more power than C16 race gas. Boost juice, which is what I also run, is Snow Performances 50/50 premix. 
    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
×
×
  • Create New...