Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI, just got these belts from Nissan Australia and the part numbers are different to the ones above

Fan & Alternator 11720-42L02AU

Compressor 11720-77A01

Power Steering 11950-58S02

I'm just guessing they are the Australian part numbers but not 100% sure.

Can you confirm if they are still correct for the following car

R33 GTSt 95 model

TYPE CHASSIS NO: ECR33-051545

MODEL NO: GGKBRTFR33VDA--JD-

Also is the Thermostat Assy the correct part number as well 21200-42L06

Thanks

yeah man the belt number are just the nissan genuine spec, the numbers with the AY are pitwork part numbers. still the same part though. thermostat number is also correct

  • 2 weeks later...

after the part number for the turbo compressor side output gaskets for a r33 gtr, trying to explain it to my local nissan dealer ova the phone and they think im stupid and dont know what im on about.

hey im after part number for the U shaped piece of plastic coated metal that the door mechanism catchs on???? Like you shut your door and the latch in the door hooks onto this piece to hold the door shut?

make sense?

'96 series 2 r33 if it makes any difference...and i need both sides

  • 2 weeks later...
hey im after part number for the U shaped piece of plastic coated metal that the door mechanism catchs on???? Like you shut your door and the latch in the door hooks onto this piece to hold the door shut?

make sense?

'96 series 2 r33 if it makes any difference...and i need both sides

part NO. 80570-91L00 same for both sides. by the way they call it a door stiker

Edited by neofenrir34
98 r33 GTR

Vin: 6u900bcnr33043083

turbo output gasket. around 2 inch 2 bolt gasket that connects the cooler piping to the turbo.

part No. 14465-05U11. you will need 3 of them front turbo has a spacer in there so you will need one for each side of that plus one for the rear turbo

Heya, am trying to work out what diff is in it exacalty because noone seems to know, it has it's own stand alone ecu for the diff and has 2 oil pumps under the drivers side rear, and there is a 3rd one which appears to be attached to the diff, also has a oil top up which is located in the boot. The only thing we can read on the diff is G3HJ08, the rest of it is unreadable.

1993 GTS-T

Chassis - ECR33008466

Model - GGKBRVFR33

Vin - 6u9000ecr33008466

Anyways thanks:)

no, that is a part code (normally the first 5 digits of a part number). double click it to bring it to the main screen, return there and press F5. That will bring up the full part number (as long as you have entered a VIN# first).

Nissan part numbers are 12345-abcde, where 12345 is the part code (eg engine mounts) and abcde is the model code it was first released on, eg 05U01 is 32 GTR. But the part code can vary heaps because the same part is used over multiple models

That worked, once i knew about the other screen and F5 i did it the old way again to see if it worked the same (just put in R33 at the start) and found 2 different part numbers that matched what i wanted, the second one was also for an rb20de, i wonder if its the same part.

hey guys

i need the part number for the clip that holds the front brake pads in. if u can bring up a picture i can show you which one i need. sits on the caliper and holds the top part of the pads in. there is one top and bottom.

vin: WGNC34013254

btw brett when you do it that way you get the part numbers for different models. safest way to get the right bit for your car is to use the vin because it has the exact details for your car

clips aren't sold seperately. you need to buy "hardware kit front disc" 41080-OP626 comes with clips, shims and pads. bet it wouldn't be cheap though

f**k.

and i thought toyota was stupid with stuff like that

thanks duncan.

edit: i think camry ones are similar. ill just get one from work

cheers again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...