Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Well my clutch booster was leaking, causing the old un-even idle issue etc so i needed to replace it.

Contacted Nissan and the genuine R33 GTR Clutch booster cost around the $600 mark.

I found out that Repco are able to source an identical Nissan genuine part for $215 delivered. Both the faulty factory booster and the one repco supplied are identical but the part numbers are different.

The new Repco supplied part number is 300630-05U01. Repco's internal part number for the part is the same as this without the "-".

Cheers,

Ian

Edited by Vspec R33

No i didn't have them check up on that. It might be from an R32 GTR, a patrol, or a 300zx. When I started researching the part these were the other nissans that I found also used boosters.

I'm just glad I didnt have to give nissan another donation. This allows me to do the complete redline fluid change on the GTR without denting the bank balance quite so much.

Cheers,

Ian

Hi All,

Well my clutch booster was leaking, causing the old un-even idle issue etc so i needed to replace it.

Contacted Nissan and the genuine R33 GTR Clutch booster cost around the $600 mark.

I found out that Repco are able to source an identical Nissan genuine part for $215 delivered. Both the faulty factory booster and the one repco supplied are identical but the part numbers are different.

The new Repco supplied part number is 300630-05U01. Repco's internal part number for the part is the same as this without the "-".

Cheers,

Ian

I bought one from Nissan a while ago for about $150, just the booster not including the master though.

What's a clutch booster?

You don't have one in your car Adam, all GTRS have them , Just like brake boosters, less effort to push it down .

Landcruisers have them in some models but they use 2 heavy springs for assistance now ( done away with the booster ).

I was just going to put a slightly larger slave cylinder in my car to lighten the clutch. Maybe I could put a GTR booster on?

Too hard

You will need to recess the fire wall 40mm for the booster and mod your clutch pedal

Nismo make a larger slave for a lighter pedal

I was just going to put a slightly larger slave cylinder in my car to lighten the clutch. Maybe I could put a GTR booster on?

Don't bother , use the larger slave and it will give you better feel , the take up point will be less sudden.

or just do leg press on the left leg alot more at the gym.

05U in the part number denotes GTR, it probs is for a GTR, Nissan just have some whacked prices sometimes like the front bar lip is $400+, but a head gasket is $52. They are all over the shop.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...