Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

buy an BNR34 ecu

Here is south korea. my bnr34 is grey import vehicle and my country don't have any nissan service center for my car.

I have called nissan service center in japan, they said "you must register your dealer, and buy ecu" :thumbsup:

Edited by GloriaShield
import ecu from japan - use an importer to get it

It has a problem. They can not setup immobilizer, because they don't have nissan consult. It is only too true. :thumbsup:

Edited by GloriaShield
I thought the R34 had a different ignition setup, hence there is a different PFC model for the R34.

So how does the R33 ECU get around it?

i have seen a few R34's running R33 ECU's (cars most likely stolen ex japan) it seems to be fairly common in europe too where alot of the no so legit cars end up. i have been trying to source a r34 gtr wiring diagram for ages but the only one i can find is paulr33's and its not working, reason being is i have a few excess r34 gtr fc's and want to use them on r32/33 it can be done i just need the diagrams.... :D

  • 2 weeks later...

I fitted a PowerFC to my bnr34 gtr, It wont run at all. Plugged it in properly. Turned off the boost control function.

Maybe immobilizer problem. My country don't have nissan service center. I can't re-code.

I want.. remove immobilizer.

help me please.

I fitted a PowerFC to my bnr34 gtr, It wont run at all. Plugged it in properly. Turned off the boost control function.

Maybe immobilizer problem. My country don't have nissan service center. I can't re-code.

I want.. remove immobilizer.

help me please.

When you say " it won't run" , do you mean , it wont start? wont kick? If it won't kick the trarter you probably have some other electrical problem . Could be immobiliser , just by-pass it and see how you go .

If you don't know how to do it , its not easy, take it to an auto electrician , he should be able to sort it out for you . The s15 200sx has a similar set up , if you have them in your counrty .

When you say " it won't run" , do you mean , it wont start? wont kick? If it won't kick the trarter you probably have some other electrical problem . Could be immobiliser , just by-pass it and see how you go .

If you don't know how to do it , its not easy, take it to an auto electrician , he should be able to sort it out for you . The s15 200sx has a similar set up , if you have them in your counrty .

maybe, imobilizer system cuts fuel not spark. by-pass? how ...?

need a standard r34 gtr ecu without mods to get my keys recoded for the immobilizer.

I still want to fix my car so i can use my new power fc ... anyone any ideas....

Edited by GloriaShield
  • 3 weeks later...
maybe, imobilizer system cuts fuel not spark. by-pass? how ...?

need a standard r34 gtr ecu without mods to get my keys recoded for the immobilizer.

I still want to fix my car so i can use my new power fc ... anyone any ideas....

the key does not talk directly to the ECU on a 34 GTR....the key talks to the immobilizer box then that talks to the ECU....so any 34 GTR ecu will run your car.....providing the key and the immobilizer are mated to each other,you shouldnt have a problem

Edited by ylwgtr2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...