Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im not quite sure where exactly i remember seeing this but i do remember.

its about 4 dyno's along side each other with big projector screens infront

and you race.its a mix between the multilink daytona's and that golf game

that used to be at intensity in parramatta westfields.

i doubt it catered for wheel spin so wouldnt be 100% accurate

but still abit of fun when the weathers like it is.

it also has tracks you can race around(on screen)

anyone???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173216-dyno-style-racedrag/
Share on other sites

Sounds :weird: ... It'd be very noisy if indoors..

Imagine the car not strapped properly and BAM uh oh! :thumbsup:

http://site.dragtag.com.au/index.php?action=latest_results - Do the stats look irregular?

1990 Nissan Skyline GTS-T R32

Time 14.55 sec

60ft. Time 2.76 sec

Driver Reaction Time 0.03 sec

Car Power 205.80 Kilowatts

2000 Holden Commodore VT SS

Time 14.14 sec

60ft. Time 2.37 sec

Driver Reaction Time 0.34 sec

Car Power 147.60 Kilowatts

1995 Nissan Skyline R33 GTR V-spec <--- err wtf.. 15sec? o.0

Time 15.26 sec

60ft. Time 2.84 sec

Driver Reaction Time 0.33 sec

Car Power 171.10 Kilowatts

a little slow...i thought it would be much faster then normal...less resistance....

That's what I thought... :thumbsup:

Maybe it's the acceraton and wheelspining/jumping causing less grip? I mean the wheels are on the rollers, and arent they like metal or steel?

Links, I didn't drive my car to Melbourne to race at Drag Tag ;) I used one of their 32 GTST's and the PWR blown 6L Crewman. The times are very accurate to real life with that 10.1 second blown Chev running within hundredths of his usual quarter mile ET. It's an awesome concept and well worth checking out. If you want to go for a look and get behind the scenes, email me at [email protected] and I'll arrange it.

Yeah but your opinion doesnt count:

1 - 'cause you're gay!

2 - 'cause you have a vested interest in promoting it!

;)

1/ Ummm.....granted. Damnit!

2/ What the? Absolutely no vested interest in it at all. I'm simply speaking from the perspective of someone that has done it numerous times and has more of an insight into the idea than someone guessing or theorising about what it's probably like.

but for a GTR say, can you dial up 7000rpm and step off the clutch? what happens?

Same thing that normally happens to GTR's. BANG!!! You can do it though, BB and it will get you off the line much harder than driving off the line. Just like reallife.

So how does the whole wheelspin thing work? Dont higher powered cars wheelspin heaps more? Do the brackets pull the car down onto the rollers?

Brackets are fitted to your car and operator guided hooks grab these brackets and pull your car down onto the dyno with 8bar of pneumatic pressure. Bear in mind that it is a simulator and not a replacement for the real thing. It was created primarily as a driver training resource but the racing side of it has taken off as well. The computing power and super-nurdz behind it boggle the mind with their talents.

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
    • Hi Jasmine. How's the war going?
×
×
  • Create New...