Jump to content
SAU Community

I Killed My Rb25... Again:(

NickR33

By NickR33,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted

rightio then... as some of you are aware I had an engine 'issue' at Sandown last week :D... well the motor is almost out again as we are pretty sure its a big end bearing...

it seems that even though my car is pretty stock (stock turbo running 10.5psi) and I run on Azenis (basically street tires) I have managed to starve the bottom end of oil and spin a bearing... sooo just want to send a warning to the RB25 guys who are thinking of tracking their car, DEFINATELY overfill the oil by at least a litre... my oil was filled right up but I neglected to overfill it as I always assumed it was the GTR guys who had to worry

so yeah Nissan did not intend the RB25 to sit high in the rev range whilst throwing it round corners!

The engine is almost out again and I thought I would post what I intend to do to stop this happening again and see if all the gurus think my plan is kosher... most of my research has been SK's oil control thread in FI

the motor has been rebuilt previously after I had destroyed all the piston rings, run it low on oil and spun a bearing (on the street)... the whole thing was reconditioned, crank was fixed up as it was scored, stock rods were retained, Arias pistons 20thou over... water pump was replaced but stock oil pump remained (this may not be performing 100%)

my plan of attack this time is to replace the bearings with some ACL (any recomendations on brand here?)... clean up the crank... install GTR rods (insurance for later on)... install 1mm restrictors in both oil feeds to the head and grind out the oil galleries for better flow... replace oil pump (need guidance here, are there any bolt on solutions)... install oil cooler... bolt it all back together and hope for the best

is there anything I have overlooked? I don't want to go to an aftermarket sump because of the cost... trying to keep the costs low as possible on this one, just want the car to be reliable at the track and to be able to cope with around 250rwkw when I upgrade the turbo.... any help from people doing or have done a 25 rebuild recently is most appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173225-i-killed-my-rb25-again/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

Ouch mate not good to hear :thumbsup:

In regards to the oil pump - if doing track days/events say once a month - is it worth getting a better oil pump?

What types are out there?

Hope its a speedy recovery mate

Cheers,

Chris

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Sorry to hear about your motor.

I would think about changing cranks.....you may have internal cracks.

On the first time did you have grind it or linish it?

hmm good question, I think it was ground but I will ask... I will definately send it off to get inspected first

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yeh, not a bad idea, But you don thear of too many rwd RB spinning bottom ends. What oil were you using? Any idea of temp at the time you spun the bearing? At what part of the track were you on when th eproblem surfaced? Did you have any misses up until that point?

Using your standard Penrite HPR stuff, 15W I think... oil was 4,000km old and really should have been changed (had done a DECA on that oil)... oil temp was okay, in the high 80's low 90's at the time... no misses car was running great, I was coming out of the 3rd last corner, going under the bridge, high rpms in 3rd gear and it just let go

yep Ash seriously considering that option... I really don't want to have to take it out again

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Hey Nick, i'm building my motor: it's a little different :D but same principles apply.

Basically doing what SK has listed in the thread you refered to.

Fitting a H.E.(High Energy, circuit type) 8.5L baffled sump and an N1 oil pump.

I am also using GTR race bearings (ACL, i think). The block has to be modified to fit, but the gtr's have groves in the middle of the bearing to improve lubrication to the crank (and possibly rods).

Oil is the blood of your engine, the cost of the sump is cheap insurance and eliminates any possibilty of oil starvation.

Good luck buddy, hope to see the beast back on the road soon.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

The sump is a waste of money.

I'll freely say there is absolutely no point.

If its good for a 350+rwkw GTR to use the stock sump, then its ok for a much slower RWD car.

There is even a RWD car that comes to mind, that TURFED a H.E. sump and went back to a stocker :P

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

But are we sure that the rebuilt GTRs in Vic are usign completely std sumps?

Either way, i dont think modified sumps for rwd Skylines is a must.

What would be more of a concern is the Penrite. There was a whole lot wrong a while ago when i picked up my car after a tune/service. The next day the engine let go at PI when only making 210rwkws. The fact that it was using Penrite is another thing i added to the column of "probably didnt help" list.

LTHLRB Grand Master

LTHLRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

id recomend a sump first.. its not always ur oil temp but starving the engine of oil. a trust sump has baffles to control the oil while throwing it around corners. if u dont see much track work and its mostly a street car a sump would b a better solution because it has 1L more oil than standard which in turn will keep the oil cooler.

ACL race series bearings are good but with a good tune and standard nissan bearings it should do the job for the power u have.

with a good tune and good oil u shouldnt have a problem.

cheers Phill :P

use good oil!! motul turbo light is perfect and its not to bad on the pocket

Edited by LTHLRB
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
The sump is a waste of money.

I'll freely say there is absolutely no point.

If its good for a 350+rwkw GTR to use the stock sump, then its ok for a much slower RWD car.

There is even a RWD car that comes to mind, that TURFED a H.E. sump and went back to a stocker :P

You "freely say" alot of things Ash; many of which alot of people disagree with :(
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
yes i'm not so sure about the stockness of sumps.

would be worthwhile asking the question to someone who knows... eg benno

Ben is very secretive about his builds, and fair enough, he has invested alot of his time and effort to sort out the common rb26 issues. So i'm not too sure he would give an honest answer, if one at all.

But it's not too hard, or expensive, to fit a Tomei baffle or even make one of his own.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
ACL race series bearings are good but with a good tune and standard nissan bearings it should do the job for the power u have.
I wouldn't think you would fit race bearing for power, but to accommodate/protect for extended periods of higher reving.

At the end of the day, i would prefer an "overkill" setup, just for piece of mind.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...