Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car leaks Coolant from the inside like its allo on the mats and shit, i dont know whats wrong i thought maybe it was a hose but we fixed it and it is still leaking... so my car overheats and what not... i dont know whats wrong ?? help !!

You most likely have a cracked heater core...

You can bypass it for the time being (until you get it repaired). Theres two coolant hoses in the engine bay that pass through the firewall; disconnect them from the firewall and join them together in some fashion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173344-r32-gtst/#findComment-3188274
Share on other sites

Yep your heater core has gone... this happens when the water stagnates in the core and rusts it. Do a search in the forum for "heater core replacement". A second hand one will cost between $100 - $150 and will involve a lot of work on your part. Most workshops quote around $1000 to change as it is a big job.

Good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173344-r32-gtst/#findComment-3188713
Share on other sites

Hey guys i think im having a simular problem with my r32 gtst.

I have to keep toppping up the radiator coolant everyday, its leaking somewhere, and i cant seem to see exactly where from.

I got under the car and couldnt see water dripping from anywhere at all!

I have to keep toppping it up everyday otherwise the car overheats and steam piss'es out from the top of the engine bay.

What are the other possible causes of a issue like this????

Cheers

Tone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173344-r32-gtst/#findComment-3192282
Share on other sites

Number 1 - Check that all your hoses are tight and are not cracked. Pressure builds when the system gets warm. The leak may be closed when cold but when your engine warms the cracks or loose hoses can open up and leak. Hoses should NOT be "scrunchy" when you squeeze them. - also check your radiator for coolant stains - on the top and bottom tanks and on the core itself.

Number 2 - How many kms has your car done? If more than 100,000 and you haven't fitted a new water pump - Time to do so.

The seals in it wear out and leak.

Number 3 - How full is the radiator over flow bottle? Check if this level is between min and max. If the bottle is full then there is a chance your car is overheating and the water is coming out through there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173344-r32-gtst/#findComment-3192660
Share on other sites

would be best to replace both radiator hoses if you have an old r32.

Mine sprung a leak and pissed coolant all over the engine bay.

The hole was a size of a pin, but due to the high pressure in the system it sprayed it all out.

Picked up a top radiator hose from nissan for $60, but i hear you can buy a pair from autobarn for $120 now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173344-r32-gtst/#findComment-3192752
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...