Jump to content
SAU Community

R2525det Power Problems

UCD15R33

By UCD15R33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

UCD15R33 Experienced

UCD15R33

Posted
Posted

hey ppl

I need some advice on whats going on with my r33. Yesterday i took my car for a dyno now six months ago it ran 250 hp no worries and what was with a stock fuel pump and inject and coils and pod. Yesterday i took the car back because we put some more boost into the car and a 040 fuel pump took see what happen. Now about 2 weeks before it have a tune and it ran 234 at 10psi cause the fuel pump was not working properly. So yesterday it ran a 218hp with new fuel pump and 14psi boost. the air fuel ratio was fine it was bout 10 or 11. One problem we think it might be is that turbo has a big whistle before boost it doesnt sound healthy. So any ideas

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173367-r2525det-power-problems/
Share on other sites
cheez Mentor

cheez

Posted
Posted

white smoke can be either turbo or just the regular smoke when hot air goes into cold, black smoke is the fuel, it may be running ricg.

what mods are u running in the way of a computer or safc or what?

if ur in melb take it to ray @ RE customs. he'll fix it. mine had a faulty crank angle sensor which reduced hp when we dynoed. easy fix.

but tel us the mods and we'll see if we can help ye out. btw get rid of the 040, they sh*t and get a tomei fuel pump. speak to r33god he can get em at a good price.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

his mods are "possibly" highflowed turbo (i am going to take it off on the weekend and have a look), 040 pump which i put in on the weekend, new spark plugs, pod filter, fmic, turbosmart boost controller, turbo back exhaust and remapped ecu. i think that is all, dan will post up if i missed any.

i know it can't be the dyno reading out because a r33 with stock turbo, remapped ecu, full exhaust, cooler on 14psi made 271hp immediately before him, and a xr6t with flashtune and 12psi made 299.3hp dirrectly after him.

i was talking to the dyno operator and he said that it came up to around 100hp at about 80kmh nice and easilly and then just didn't really keep going from there.

a few problems we know of are: missing one of the nuts from where the turbo bolts to the manifold, has a loose bolt on the compressor housing (one of the ones that if you loosen you can spin the housing round).

we know it isn't a fuel issue as once it came on boost the afr's dropped from mid 12's down to low to mid 10's. the graph was a bit rough and when they put the graph from the run a few weeks back it was much, much smoother. my guess is that the turbo is just dead, which is why i want to pull it off this weekend. the whistle dan mentioned is also there on boost, he just can't hear it from inside the car.

limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted (edited)

Its a long shot...but could it be blow-by at higher revs being injested into the intake and causing detonation...thus causing the knock sensor to retard timing and hence less power? Also...afrs of around 10ish seems alittle rich to me...that would hold power back too...

Edited by limpus
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

yeah we realise that it is running on the rich side. i think that will be a big factor in the loss of close to 20hp. the afr's on the 230hp run were rather lean. we have a emange waiting to be tuned. we are just waiting for the new turbo to arrive, but dan wants to check that the bottom end is ok (compression test, etc). if it is dead of dying then i have a rb30 sitting in the shed at home that we will build up.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

we got a new turbo coming so we are just going to scrap the turbo that's on it.

we have just put it down to the fact that the afrs are so rich compared to what they were last time. last time they were in the mid 12's to 13's, now they are low to mid 10's.

also found out that the skyline that went on before dan that mad 271hp had afr's of low 13's, so that explains the power it made.

but first we gotta replace the rack end and tie rod end cause the passenger side one keeps dropping out cause the thread is stuffed. luckilly it has dropped out while dan is driving on the highway. it has only dropped out while he is in town.

UCD15R33 Experienced

UCD15R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah it luckky it didnt happen on they highway I would have become another "young silly drive doing highspeed" well that was the cops would have said. Aholes. I looking at bout 300 for a new rack fitted. As for the turbo once the new one gets here lets see what that does. the whistle is really startning to drive me nuts its gettn worst everyday but I love driving it too much to leave it at home.

Well Mark I am hoping like all hell the dam turbos here today I am get aliittle pissy with Autobarn

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbodoc
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By Turbodoc · Posted

      Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...