Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Or S13, R33 Or S14

jim32
 Share

Recommended Posts

jim32 Apprentice

jim32

Posted
Posted

Just saved up enough money to be able to purchase another car but i have a hard choice ahead me i am intrested in the above cars, and the requirments out of the cars are 250hp, easily modified and extensive body kit + exterior mod range. So i stuck between the R32 or S13 is well within my budget with a couple of goodies going staright on or R33 or S14 where there will be lack of goodies for a while, tuff choice just after some opinions and thoughts

Thanks Jim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173578-r32-or-s13-r33-or-s14/
Share on other sites
R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
Posted

Id prob say not the s13. Can look tacky with bodykits etc, getting quite dated. s14 is a good choice if its series 2 olther wise the 33 looks the goods with the right kit and can be easily modified to the power level you want. The rb20 in the 32 will take a bit more to get to the same level.

deant1 Collaborator

deant1

Posted
Posted

Buy the cheapest 32 you can find that's got decent paint work. spend the rest on an rb25, coilovers, swaybars and whatever else your budget can afford.

imo 33's are the better car only because of the engine. 32 has a better handling and more direct steering.

As for looks it's down to personal preference. i prefer 32 and 34 looks as i think they are fairly simiular tbh. each to there own.

In saying that i had a drive of a friends S14 a while ago and that's only got 180rwkw and it felt very responsive and handled great (lighter car), until smoke came pouring out the back and apparently the turbo gasket had blown.

Quicksilvia Newbie

Quicksilvia

Posted
Posted (edited)

Since i have one i will go for s14a! DONT GET SERIES I, the turbo aint as good!

Light and cheap, i have been told that fuel consumption is much better than a 33 by a mate and it does make sense!

I cant really compare but im happy with what i got

Unigroup were shocked and said they had never see it before so i dont know if you can go directly by it but i got 203.4rwkw with 16.5psi (yavus still cant believe its a stock turbo because of how easily it was doing it but it is), ces 3" zorst, hybrid intercooler, 040 fuel pump, SAFC II, pod, bov, and other small things. So it took nothing to go up from around 110rwkw, so im very happy with my car, the zorst is the best part since i got the quiet version so long trips are no issue at all! in fact i look forward to them!

Also i dont know why my avatar has rb20e in it!! i didnt put it there so im sorting it out! my car has an sr20 blacktop (stock) just incase there was any confusion!

Edited by Quicksilvia
deant1 Collaborator

deant1

Posted
Posted

you probably thought that because 33 steering is the least direct out of all the skylines and silvias. might make the car feel lighter and easier to handle. they revised the steering and made it feel more like the r32 when they developed the 34's. direct steering is better for racing and more assisted softer steering is better for a daily driver.

What do you want the car for? just a daily or a leisure toy...

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted
Since i have one i will go for s14a! DONT GET SERIES I, the turbo aint as good!

Light and cheap, i have been told that fuel consumption is much better than a 33 by a mate and it does make sense!

I cant really compare but im happy with what i got

Unigroup were shocked and said they had never see it before so i dont know if you can go directly by it but i got 203.4rwkw with 16.5psi (yavus still cant believe its a stock turbo because of how easily it was doing it but it is), ces 3" zorst, hybrid intercooler, 040 fuel pump, SAFC II, pod, bov, and other small things. So it took nothing to go up from around 110rwkw, so im very happy with my car, the zorst is the best part since i got the quiet version so long trips are no issue at all! in fact i look forward to them!

Also i dont know why my avatar has rb20e in it!! i didnt put it there so im sorting it out! my car has an sr20 blacktop (stock) just incase there was any confusion!

there is no difference between series 1 or 2 for the S14 in the engine.

if you are making 203rwkw in an S14, you do not have a stock turbo.

even S15's struggle to make 200rwkw with pfc and supporting mods and something like 17psi of boost.

my series 1 made 175rwkw with 15psi boost and safc, fmic, pump, exhaust, pod etc..

same dyno as you.

same tuner as you.

Absent Community Regular

Absent

Posted
Posted

I hate these threads, everyone recomends the car that they own and then bag the others saying rb25>rb20, r33s are boats, rb>sr, etc. It turns into an arguement of who has the best car

get the car you want and like the most

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...