Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its time to upgrade my brakes and have been looking at the various brands.

I have had DBA slotteds on my last car but after a year of driving i found that the rotor was wearing pretty bad.I was using Bendix ultimates at the time.

I dont think ill be getting RDAs.

I was wondering if anyone has been using the SCR rotors from Project Mu for a while?

Im thinking of getting those with Ferodo 2500 pads.

There seems to be only one line of slotted rotors from Project Mu for the R33 gtst which is the SCR line.

I would like to keep the budget at 1k so i wont be getting alcon or brembos.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173886-project-mu-scr-rotors/
Share on other sites

Its time to upgrade my brakes and have been looking at the various brands.

I have had DBA slotteds on my last car but after a year of driving i found that the rotor was wearing pretty bad.I was using Bendix ultimates at the time.

I dont think ill be getting RDAs.

I was wondering if anyone has been using the SCR rotors from Project Mu for a while?

Im thinking of getting those with Ferodo 2500 pads.

There seems to be only one line of slotted rotors from Project Mu for the R33 which is the SCR line.

I would like to keep the budget at 1k so i wont be getting alcon or brembos.

Have a set of them on and have about 3 months and a couple track days on them. No complaints - love em.

I have the scr pros on my 32gtst. Great bit of kit. Worked well at Wakefield the other day as well. I also run Pmu 0-800 pads (HC+?)

Admittedly, i think the rotors are overkill for my application but i just couldn't pass them up. scr's would work just as well.

I think ill be going the SCR rotors matched with the Project type NR pads.

It says on the project website the NR pads are only sold in japan.Luckily Greenline sell them :rolleyes:

Been running Nismo S tune pads. Great pad - stop great cold on tha street and don't fade on the track.

I have the scr pros on my 32gtst. Great bit of kit. Worked well at Wakefield the other day as well. I also run Pmu 0-800 pads (HC+?)

Admittedly, i think the rotors are overkill for my application but i just couldn't pass them up. scr's would work just as well.

What diam rotor? So they are the alloy hat rotors? Can i ask where you got them from? Im hunting aroudn for some rotors and pads.

What diam rotor? So they are the alloy hat rotors? Can i ask where you got them from? Im hunting aroudn for some rotors and pads.

Im running r34 GTt 310 rotors and calipers. Yes, the alloy hat ones. Mine came from mu secret in kensington though they moved recently to somewhere on parramatta road.

Dave, anything with the name project mu on it is pretty good as an understatement.

I have a friend with an r32 with the project mu pads only on stock rotors, and the difference compared to the stock pads was phenomenal!

As much as i'm sure rda/dba are an ok product, I feel it's like comparing holden with nissan.

Not to mention, nowadays with the jap resellers like greenline,a nd also with our high dollar, the price difference is not a lot!

Edited by MANWHORE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...