Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I checked my docs and you may be right, there is no reference to the fog lights in the CIN but the Xenons are in there. So not sure if these definitely needed to be done, but were anyway and I got the attached doc from compliance too.

just went out to the car having read this document for the first time (don't know why i didnt read it earlier??)

took me 30sec to:

- open the door

- take my key and pop out the little plastic cover offthe back of hte stalk

- the little white plug had not been cut, but simply unplugged.. so i plugged it back in

- re-installed the little plastic cover

now i have foglights!!

i'm going to get myself a set of nice halogen H4 bulbs (the high-intensity kind that are a whiteish colour but not HID) and swap them over someday soon, and while i'm at it i will replace the parking lights with white LED wedge globes

  • Replies 140
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

pics of WAZ's lights on progress :cheers:

DSC_0365.JPG

front of car before I started :P

DSC_0359.JPG

now it comes to bits ( fairly easy to remove if you take your time.)

DSC_0360.JPG

headlight assy.

DSC_0361.JPG

HID ballast - look closely thats how the halogen lights are done (the plug was chopped!)

DSC_0362.JPG

HID plug was intact and tucked out of the way..

DSC_0363.JPG

bit hard to see but there is a blue light there (light is on and warming.)

then it all goes back together :)

well maybe the fog light switch also turns on he park lights

so normally both should come on, but with the fog light out only 1 coms on so it looks like its switching backwards..

mate, take the palstic cover off, it takes literally 30sec and see what you have in there..

Hmm, weird thing with mine is when I turn the centre switch on the stalk my park lights come on, so I assume that they re-wired it to there?

So basically there should be an extra spot for the fog light to go?

Yeah mine too

Yeah mine too

Park lights and high beam come on when I turn the switch. Doesn't appear to be foglights, it's the same one that lights up when I use my high beam. Maybe the integrated foglights are for the sedan only? Can't see where the foglights can be installed in the housing.

just went out to the car having read this document for the first time (don't know why i didnt read it earlier??)

took me 30sec to:

- open the door

- take my key and pop out the little plastic cover offthe back of hte stalk

- the little white plug had not been cut, but simply unplugged.. so i plugged it back in

- re-installed the little plastic cover

now i have foglights!!

No worries, cool. Good going with the Xenons too. Much better than anything aftermarket.

Nah mine is still intact! ??? I'm definately putting aside a day to pull the bumper off, had a look with the tourch and I think I could just see that the HID balast are still on the back of the headlights! Hopefully just a matter of re-wiring them.

If it's any help, not sure if the coupe is radically different, but I know on the sedan you don't need to pull out the whole bumper and the headlights. You can do the job with jacks/hoist by pulling off the front wheels and the plastic guards in the wheel well and underneath. May be easier for some this way as you don't have any alignment issues putting everything back.

Park lights and high beam come on when I turn the switch. Doesn't appear to be foglights, it's the same one that lights up when I use my high beam. Maybe the integrated foglights are for the sedan only? Can't see where the foglights can be installed in the housing.

Hey check what globes you have, should be the H4 type where the high beam is, or maybe the wiring has been modified at the back of them.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok took one side of the inside of the wheel arch off, and I can see a silver unit low down which looks to me like a balast (think it may be part of the fog light kit I have). It has two sockets on it, one that goes to the fog light. There is a cable near by with the compatible plug on it just wrap up in the corner, fits perfectly into the other socket, this is the same on both sides of the car.

Also there is a small grey looking balast on the back of the headlight assembly which has a plug that has been cut, the same as the post from Chris earlier.

Chris, with those red wires that were cut in your pictures, did you cut that yourself from the standard wiring (globes)? I'm just not sure where to join the green & black wires that have been cut to?

Cheers!

post-14036-1194440336_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...