Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you didnt. and it isnt answered in this thread either quote from dan_the_man "Safety feature for skylines" not exactly specific now is it.

or what about this quote from Jay "Yepp, I've seen this in a mates R33 GTS-t" doesnt exactly say 33's only either.

whats yr point duncan? are you simply too old or cant be bothered with my question? in which case rack off and try something useful. your profile says u own a 33, so how would you know about a 34?

if you or anyone else actually knows some useful info like a particular thread url then help would be welcomed and appreciated - your post is just a wot - imo.

Originally posted by nismoR34

you didnt. and it isnt answered in this thread either quote from  dan_the_man "Safety feature for skylines" not exactly specific now is it.

or what about this quote from Jay "Yepp, I've seen this in a mates R33 GTS-t" doesnt exactly say 33's only either.

whats yr point duncan? are you simply too old or cant be bothered with my question? in which case rack off and try something useful. your profile says u own a 33, so how would you know about a 34?  

if you or anyone else actually knows some useful info like a particular thread url then help would be welcomed and appreciated - your post is just a wot - imo.

Are you too young to use the search button and to show some respect to those trying to help out?

My point is

"didn't we do this question yesterday? "

well, yes we did, in this same forum section:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=8336

"feature in r33 series 1 only." means feature in r33 series 1 only.

B-man's case, I'm not sure of, perhaps it was just a common option, not standard feature.

As for your question "the exhaust causes a small kind of vibration sound in the door that disappears when in locked position" no idea, thats why i didnt answer it.

I got into Dino's car at Skidpan day and it locked - and I was like WTF ??? I didn't know about this 'feature' until then.

My S1 R33 definitely does not do this - not sure if anything had been done to it -

Skylines all seem to be different in one way or the other.

And yes searching works well - so does helping out fellow Skyline owners. Chill guys OK

Cheers, !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
    • Light should be a pressure switch, not a sensor.
    • The pressure light likely has a different sender to a pressure gauge, its been too long for me to remember for sure. Just have a look for another sender down near the oil filter. If you are confident in your rewired pressure sender reading correctly, you can be pretty sure it is just the dash light's sender failing, it is a pretty common thing.
    • It would be nice to see the result, but instagram is a click too far
×
×
  • Create New...