Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah i was going to say the same, a bit on the rich side, orange is definalty from the octane booster. Number 1 and 6 are a bit ritchen then most, well possibly it's the pics. Timming is close, but i was under the impresion that the top of electrode burn had to be as close to the end of the. quote

"Ideally, you want this blue line to be just below where the ground strap makes the sharp bend and above the weld. If you advance the ignition too far the blue will disappear off the strap and the strap will pick up rainbow colors (blues and greens)."

http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/read...park-plugs.html

Anyway looks good either way

Hey,

first, I don't read plugs for mixture on the car because I have a wideband to do that

and the method I use on the bike is not a Good Thing for a turbo car :mrt:

Second, I'm no plug-reading expert but I have done it a few times on my bike

with expert help. On the bike, I have to run at the load and RPM I want to check,

then hit the kill switch, coast to a stop and pull a plug. If I idle to a stop I can't read

the plug because they're basically black like yours.

Did you chop the ignition during/straight after a full-load run then pull the plugs?

Because that line of what looks like fuel right near the electrode looks to me like

the car was idled for at least 20 seconds before the plugs were pulled. You might

need to try it again...

Hope this helps :)

Regards,

Saliya

Looks like your have a cracked insulator - so you may have a detonation issue however its hard to tell if there is any aluminium spheodites on the plugs as there is so much octane addtives. Not sure how poeple are saying that its rich as once the insulator and plug is that lead fouled the insulator doesn't get enough heat into it to burn off the deposits so the plug never cleans itself.

Typically pink orangy coloured plugs indicate coolant burning.

that is definately octane booster not coolant. its too hard to read plugs without knowing the condition it was running before switch off. from a quick glance i would think about 7's. Other than that a wide band is a far safer quicker tool.

Its definitely menstruating, wait a week or so and try again!

One question---------did you do a plug chop? or was this after you drove home and parked it in the driveway/shed?

Hi what are the brand of mags you are running on your vehicle?

I just drove it normally so yeah it probably idled a bit before it was turned off. I didn't realise the condition was dependent on how it was driven just before stopping it.

Yes I have used octane booster a few times.

I have also had some detonation. Lucky my forged pistons seem to be holding up ok.

You read the plugs for the rev range you want to assess burn for.

ie You drive at 4000rpm and do a chop, then you do 6000 and do a chop etc etc and its best done under normal load etc no revving in the driveway, either a dyno or a racetrack etc.

Or if your only interested in one bandwidth then do a chop on it only.

Sorry Saliya, just saw your reply, and you are correct.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...