Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, well im new to the rb scene, ive done all the others though, 1jz,2jz,ka,sr,and even ca, but now i am freshly swapping an rb26dett into my 95 s14 240sx chassis, im am using the car for a DRIFT only setup, but ive fallen in love with the top mount twin turbo setup, the only problem here is i need great response out of this setup. im custom fabricating my own manifolds and downpipes for this setup but i need some in put on the turbo's(remember i need great response), i just pulled out of the car was a sr top mount t3/to4e setup. It made 375(untuned/SAFC)to the wheels but the boost curve was horriable, it was like an on and off switch, i dont want that with this setup, i want boost to build low and smooth curve, im not looking to do much internally unless told its a must, pretty much stock motor execpt headgasket, headstuds, z32 mafs, safc neo, and twin turbo setup im looking for 450hpish realiable but f**king fun and fast with ofcoarse great response, heres the choices that i put infont of myself now but i need other opinions on which set of turbos to run

turbo choice#1- t3/to4e

specs:

60 Trim

compressor-.48 ar

Turbine-.60 ar

turbo# choice2- t3

specs:

50 trim

compressor-.42 ar

turbine- .48

well i could really use all input on which turbos to use in my setup also if you have any other choices i should consider please inform me but no single turbo conversion, or bottom mount turbos, i want top mount twin setup but please feel free to inform!

thank you,

paul f

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175371-twin-turbo-top-mount-questions/
Share on other sites

Why not save your self a few $ and just buy a couple of HKS GT-SS turbos and keep them low mounted.

They will give you the power you want and a nice smooth power curve.

But if you say that you dont want low monted ones you could always top mount them. they are internally gated so plumbing wont be an issue, just heat melting shit due to the high mount.

Also if you wanted more power go HKS GT-RS or 2530s

Or Garrett 2860-5 or 2871s

SO much easier than using dinosaur tech T03s/T04e's :w00t:

My 2c

yes, most def. going to place the rb26 in my s14 chassis, thats all i do is drift and this is a drift car only! i like to be diffrent, and ive only seen a few (s13) with rb26's in them for drift, but yes i would def going to keep top mount but whatc ya think out of the two choices above should i run for that nice quick spool and response and still make like 400 450hp!!!??? info please!!

If your making you own manifolds. Then just high-mount the HKS GT-SS turbos, they are exactly what you want without a doubt.

Although, your better off keeping them low mount for a few reasons, heat and pure cheapness/ease of parts being the main ones

But if you dont mind fabricating everything totally custom then go for it really.

yes, most def. going to place the rb26 in my s14 chassis, thats all i do is drift and this is a drift car only! i like to be diffrent, and ive only seen a few (s13) with rb26's in them for drift, but yes i would def going to keep top mount but whatc ya think out of the two choices above should i run for that nice quick spool and response and still make like 400 450hp!!!??? info please!!

If your building this as a drift car only, then putting a heavier rb motor up the front of an s-series will give you less than spectacular balance, talk to URAS, he has a lovely rb26s14, and quite often recommends against doing this combo for track work. Not saying it wont be a great car, but would hate to see you do all this work and be beaten by ca's and sr's.

If your building this as a drift car only, then putting a heavier rb motor up the front of an s-series will give you less than spectacular balance, talk to URAS, he has a lovely rb26s14, and quite often recommends against doing this combo for track work. Not saying it wont be a great car, but would hate to see you do all this work and be beaten by ca's and sr's.

i am fully aware of the weight diffrence but i have full and not just coilovers but cage and all suspension setup on my car just for this motor setup! the car will drift perfect with this setup its going rb26 no matter what!

but now here i was thinking, how responsive are the stock twin? because i would like to drive the car with the stock twins so i dont kill my self with out felling the power of the stock motor! i was just gonna throw so new manifolds, dump pipes and full 3inch, no cat, exhaust on it on like 12-15psi! that should get me arond 350-400 right!!! then the mafs/injectors tap out! so that should be a great start?what yeah think?

thank!!

you wont get 400rwhp outta stock twins, you would have to go N1s at least.

Even if your car has suspention/chassis work it wont hide the fact that you will have a great big lump of iron there when the car was made to have a smaller lump of alloy.

Just look at Top Secrets 350Z drifter it has an RB26 (Iron) instead of the VQ35 (alloy) in it and the drivers all say it handles like a lead tipped arrow and wont turn in to corners and wont change direction when sliding.

URAS should be able to tell you more about what there like in a Silvia Chassis

Andrew

Paul,

It is good to be different.....and you should do as you like.

Others here say not a RB26...I tend to agree.

Most great drift cars normally use the same motor the manufacturer put in.

they do this and modify/upgrade

1- Suspension.

2- pistons,rods,crank,cams, turbo etc etc.

By putting a stock RB26 motor into a silvia is not going to get you what your looking for.

But if that is not going to faise you.

Get some -7 garrett turbo's(mount them to the top)as R31Nismoid suggested...tomie poncams(drop in)....555 nismo injectors/pump/reg.....pfc....avcr....

Include supporting mods..oil cooler,new oil pump,..etc..etc...

Get a drift tune...1.2 Bar max...then you will smoke those tyres....lol

Good luck with your project.

If you want to be a serious drifter DONT go RB in that chassis. You will develop an understering pig of a car. This is the same reason that you dont see big block chevys in grass roots ovaltrack racing. THey just wont turn in unles you have mountans of power and huge balls to mash the gas to create an overster situation when you are heading into a wall at 100k. I raced that way for years. Get it wrong once or twice and you will be praying for a lighter front end. You will push like a Actros.

If you want to be a serious drifter DONT go RB in that chassis. You will develop an understering pig of a car

Although it has a better front/rear split in standard form than a S14 I have a RS13 with a 25DETT in the front and although I don't drift it I do use it on the odd trackday and its very balanced and in no way understeery when wheeled/tyred adequately and set up properly. Its sister car still has a CA and runs the same suspension and in comparison the RB powered car is actually more planted and turns in better on track.

Heres a little vid from Brands Hatch from a couple of years ago:

http://mambastu.mysite.wanadoo-members.co...._RB25_400TT.mpg

The car was running with a restrictive exhaust to get it quiet enough to run on the day so estimate around 380bhp on the day, I believe that Ferrari 355's are supposed to handle reasonably well...

Edited by mambastu
Are you running a 300rwkw RB25?

Because running a stock-ish powered one is a lot different to running a setup with another 100-140rwkw

More like 265 rwkw. It was dynoed at 352rwhp with its road use Blitz NUR on it. On track as I mentioned I have to replace the rear box with a larger and more restrictive 3" box and you can really the difference.

The spec is R33 RB25DET with ported head, twin turbo conversion using standard GTR turbos at 1 bar, 2.5" downpipes, 3" system, no cat. GReddy plenum, 550's, E-manage, R34 GTR intercooler, 3" pipework between turbos and throttlebody.

The point I was trying to make is that by sticking an RB in the front it doesn't turn the car into an understeering pig of a thing like so many people say it will. You can see on the video that the car was able to turn in fine. As Paul f has pointed out, the power delivery is so smooth with a 400/450 hp RB25/26 when compared to a 400/450 hp CA or SR which really helps with getting the power down out of corners. Much more predictable.

Edited by mambastu

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...