Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would like some advice from some S2 owners or any experts out there. Im looking to upgrade my factory S2/R34gtt SMIC to cope with my mods and the Brisbane heat. As you know there are not many bolt on options out there for S2s, and the S2 bumper does not allow much air flow to a FMIC. Im looking at an R33 ARC 'turn back' FMIC, which uses the factory pipe holes, see photo. It is slightly smaller, 470mm long, compared with 600 for most FMICs.

Has anyone sucesssfully installed a 'turn back' FMIC on a S2 ? if so, what mods and brand ? and any other advice please.

post-780-1183631065_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175455-s2-intercooler-options/
Share on other sites

fitting an fmic kit to a stag is no harder than it is for a skyline. My S2 rwd turned out easier to fit than my friends R34 coupe.

R32/33/34 kits work.

a blitz lm same side return kit should fit as well. That would be the nicest cooler kit available i think.

fitting an fmic kit to a stag is no harder than it is for a skyline. My S2 rwd turned out easier to fit than my friends R34 coupe.

R32/33/34 kits work.

a blitz lm same side return kit should fit as well. That would be the nicest cooler kit available i think.

i have a blitz LM on my car atm and also have a arc one sitting in my room,the blitz LM ones are alittle bigger than the arc ones

I have an ARC return feed one, extremely good cooler kit, soooo easy to install and can handle heaps of power.

I highly reccomend, but yes if i had the option i prolly would have gone for the blitz item only because it is a little bigger but the best thing about the ARC item is, is that i did not have to chop anything behind my front bar not even the reo bar, nothing at all has been illegally done when instally the front mount

thanks guys, i was considering the Blitz LM as well, but like the simplicity of the piping on the ARC. How about air flow to the S2 FMIC ? is it an issue ?

FLYSLY, which ARC did you install, R33 (return pipe on bottom, 470mm) or R34 (return pipe behind, 600mm), and did you have to remount the oil cooler, fan etc ? and any modifications to the supplied pipes?

Edited by chook

I'm running the Greddy return style FMIC in mine, made for S1 and S2 stageas, easy to fit,

minimal chopping (small amount from bar support).

I've managed to squeeze 242rwkw out of it, and it would handle a bit more with the right mods.

I have an ARC return feed one, extremely good cooler kit, soooo easy to install and can handle heaps of power.

I highly reccomend, but yes if i had the option i prolly would have gone for the blitz item only because it is a little bigger but the best thing about the ARC item is, is that i did not have to chop anything behind my front bar not even the reo bar, nothing at all has been illegally done when instally the front mount

same goes for the Apexi return feed item. I cant give you a web link as apexi recently changed their websites.

didnt have to alter anything, although I cut off the numberplate plastic part in the middle of the airdam opening on the S1 Dayz front bar, just to get maximum possible air feed.

used a intercooler pipe kit off ebay for $99usd, and 4ply silicon tubing with nut/bolt-style clamps from an irrigation place.

cost bugger all in the big scheme of things.

when I was looking into this ARC seemed a great buy (secondhand), but japan ebay threw up the Apexi 'Hybrid' unit for a few hundred USD. Glad I bought it for sure.

Basically if you dont mind having the return pipe coming over the top of the fan in the engine bay,

go for one of the cheaper R33-R34 style IC kits available in Aus.

But if you want to go for the more stealthy type, it's either the Blitz LM or the Greddy V SPL.

I would choose either of these over the ARC, as they have bigger cores.

The Greddy utilises all factory piping from the standard IC, but the Blitz kit has extra piping

that needs the factory air box to be replaced with a pod.

Also both these kits are Stagea specific, so they come with hosing and brackets to relocate

your auto trans cooler (they are a sinch to fit).

Hope that makes it easier for you.

I just did a bit of looking on Nengun, and it looks as though Greddy have changed a few things around with their IC kits.

the part numbers have changed.

Also they only list them for the series 1, but I know for a fact the Blitz instructions show pictures of a series two for installation.

Not sure about the Greddy kit though, will do some research and post later tonight.

Looks as though the Greddy kit is only listed for the series 1 (i would nearly bet it fits the S2)

but I can't guarantee it, the Blitz kit would definately suit though.

Might be an idea to email Greddy and ask them if you want a definate answer.

On the other hand, an S2 stock IC will bolt into an S1, so the piping is the same,

so I would be confident the Greddy kit will fit the S2, the only problem might be with

the trans cooler relocation, but that shouldn't be hard to overcome.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
×
×
  • Create New...