Jump to content
SAU Community

About To Go Do The Hks Gt-rs Route

nsta

By nsta,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

nsta Mentor

nsta

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, just need to know if theres anything ill need to support the hks gt-rsturbo kit against what i have now

Heres my current mods:

R33 skyline gts25t series 1 '94

3" exhaust into split dump pipe

hybrid FMIC

Apexi pod

Splitfire coilpacks and ngk bcpr6es

new fuel filter

bosch 040 fuel pump

sau boost tap

stock ecu

stock turbo running 10psi

Im aiming for around 250rwkw......heres a list of things i dont know whether i need or not:

nismo injectors(550 or 700cc)

apexi powerfc

new head gasket

Fuel pressure regulator

turbo manifold?

And my other question:

whats involved in the replacement from stock to hks gt-rsturbo kit?and does the kit come with everything ill need to bolt it all straight up?, is it a low turbo mount(will i need to change the manifold)?, and how much labour involved approx, im thinking of doing it all myself.

I know alot of people on here have done it, i just want to do it right the first time, meaning i will buy all the supporting mods now, instead of headaches in the long run....need some real world advice thats all.

Car is mainly street, never sees track work, and is on toyo t1rs 235/265, with coilovers and camber bushes for the rear, still a bit of suspension work to do.

Edited by nsta
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175688-about-to-go-do-the-hks-gt-rs-route/
Share on other sites
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Im waiting on my GT-RS as we speak (should be here in a week), its a direct bolt on to everything and comes with new lines that you will have to put on. To get the most out of it you will need an aftermarket ECU and bigger injectors (550cc will be enough). Shouldnt need a fuel pressure regulator if you get the bigger injectors but it can help for tuning. Head gasket is not really needed to lower compression untill u start getting near 270-300, even then some people dont go a different head gasket.

Good turbo choice :)

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted
Im waiting on my GT-RS as we speak (should be here in a week), its a direct bolt on to everything and comes with new lines that you will have to put on. To get the most out of it you will need an aftermarket ECU and bigger injectors (550cc will be enough). Shouldnt need a fuel pressure regulator if you get the bigger injectors but it can help for tuning. Head gasket is not really needed to lower compression untill u start getting near 270-300, even then some people dont go a different head gasket.

Good turbo choice :)

Agreed, but definately dont get a fuel pressure reg.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

ECU and Injectors are a MUST to get full potential out of the turbo/engine.

The GT-RS kit is made to be a straight bolt on. In the Jap instructions you'll see that it would still bolt on to the std airbox, smic, and ext manifold :thumbsup:.

At a later stage (if you want more power) i also recommend fitting the Tomei Poncams; these sticks work great with the turbo.

Below are a couple of my graphs, but i have the Poncams and extensive head porting (neither are needed, but do produce more power). Ignore the red line, in the graph, as the graph was done as a comparison between two different exhaust systems (red was my previous sys). The blue line was my final tune on 18psi.

post-1811-1183858520_thumb.jpg

post-1811-1183858541_thumb.jpg

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

A GT-SS on a rb25det is too small.

The smallest i'd go would be a GT2530, but you'd only get about 210-220rwkw. Responsive as all hell though :thumbsup:

Just to let ppl know: Extensive head porting will introduce a little more lag into the system (about 400rpm)

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted
sweet!, let me know how your goes mate, im after the most responsive setup i can get, and i thik the gtrs fits the bill perfect....alright, ill keep the injectors in mind

Yeah no worries dude ill let you know. Ill just be running the standard ECU and standard injectors for now and see how far i can push that setup. If it's not good enough for the time being ill chuck the SAFC on there untill i get some money for a Power FC and 550cc Nismo injectors. Then the fun will begin :P

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted
ECU and Injectors are a MUST to get full potential out of the turbo/engine.

The GT-RS kit is made to be a straight bolt on. In the Jap instructions you'll see that it would still bolt on to the std airbox, smic, and ext manifold :P.

At a later stage (if you want more power) i also recommend fitting the Tomei Poncams; these sticks work great with the turbo.

Below are a couple of my graphs, but i have the Poncams and extensive head porting (neither are needed, but do produce more power). Ignore the red line, in the graph, as the graph was done as a comparison between two different exhaust systems (red was my previous sys). The blue line was my final tune on 18psi.

Awesome power curve, congrats dude

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Yeah no worries dude ill let you know. Ill just be running the standard ECU and standard injectors for now and see how far i can push that setup. If it's not good enough for the time being ill chuck the SAFC on there untill i get some money for a Power FC and 550cc Nismo injectors. Then the fun will begin :domokun:

STOP!!!!!!!!

What are you doing man?!?!

Get the ecu first, before the turbo, and run about 12psi on the std turbo.

The ecu will unlock soooo much torque and power, it will feel like a new turbo :thumbsup: It was one of my best upgrades, second only to the turbo, which should be done after the ecu.

You'll also need a new, bigger, fuel pump when you get the turbo; possibly before hand, depending how good/worn your std one is.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Awesome power curve, congrats dude

Thanks buddy.

Only had it like that for about 5000km before my std bottom end gave up after a track day (low compression in #3: 83psi) :(. But car is only used on weekends(sometimes) and events. Done a couple of motokhanas, cruises and one track day, then oil out the new B&M pod :domokun: . But i do drive it hard at these events :P.

Now rb30det, with GT30R(500hp) (gt-rs too small for the rb30), greddy plenum and a few extra goodies. Only going for about 280-300rwkw, but will hit full boost (20psi) by about 3300rpm and make power till the 8000rpm rev limit :thumbsup:

The GT30R was the smallest recommended turbo for this setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...