Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I see exactly the same thing; I think the power drops are just because it draws so much current (the attesa pump that it's switching on/off seems to cause a voltage drop as it's turned on). Lights flash dim for a very brief second; have to be watching to notice.

from my understanding its not the pump that turns on and off its basically the system checking it has enuf pressure in the system.,..... it needs to keep a constant pressure so if the attesa does need to engage it can straight away mine drew alot of power when it clicked... lights would dim my subs would cut out.... not good.... mine will click every 5-10 mins now which is acceptable... well apparently

I have all the Attessa stuff that sits on top of the diff as well as the Atessa computer from my S1 which did not make any clicking noises that I could notice and can supply at not retail, not trade, and even better than staff prices ... in other words mates rates (much less than $1600) so contact me if you need something!

BTW dropping the diff is not the major that it sounds. You can unbolt the subframe and lower it quite a bit while leaving everything connected (probably have to take the exhaust off its hangers too). Just jack the car up, put axle stands under the chassis and then undo the four subframe bolts (or nuts I forget which) and lower the diff down on the jack.

  • 3 months later...
cheers,

the attessa seems to work fine it is just the clicking. next time a sparky gets near it they can spend a few mins poking around.

Lol you still chasing this clicking?

its got to be a couple of years since you were telling me about it.

  • 5 months later...

Hey Wolverine - You still living with this clicking?

Picked up a Stagea last week and im having the same clicking from my Relay. If I disconnect the relay I get the 4WD light come on but when it is connected it clicks every 5 to 10 seconds but no warning lights and it seems 100% fine.

Just interested if you have lived with it for a year without a problem, seems from reading GTR forums they have a similar sensor in the boot and it seems commen and people live with it.

Tempted to just live with it.

Interested to hear thoughts.

Cheers,

Well I think mine is clicking more now than it used to (unless it's just the hot weather or something) and it is starting to annoy the (*#&% out of me... if anyone has a second-hand known good attesa/accumulator unit (from above the rear diff') please let me know... if I can find one I will get the mechanic to install it.

Well I think mine is clicking more now than it used to (unless it's just the hot weather or something) and it is starting to annoy the (*#&% out of me... if anyone has a second-hand known good attesa/accumulator unit (from above the rear diff') please let me know... if I can find one I will get the mechanic to install it.
Have sent you PM re my S1 unit - let me know if you don't get it.
If you can get that sorted, u deserve champ status.

Well Bob (KiwiRS4T) has already helped out with detailed photos, part numbers and removal details so I think it is possible. I should soon know :happy:

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok well, I've done some investigation and found another post on SAU about this relay problem with GTRs and added some pics and details to that - check it out here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...18#entry5041918

Then a PM from another guy who has seen a similar issue with Aristos (they apparently have an electro-hydraulic brake setup which is susceptible to the same problem) just seemed to make a lot of sense.

I think I know what our problem is (and this was probably painfully obvious to anybody who knows anything about hydraulic systems)!

The accumulator unit is actually a cylinder of high-pressure nitrogen, and the hydraulic pressure is stored against it, it is like a constant weight that keeps pressure in the hydraulic system. (I am wondering if the '32 system doesn't have one of these - this might be the "pre-load" that people talk about on '33 and '34... but I digress)

Anywho, just like a dodgy gas lift chair, the damn pressure vessel leaks out over time and goes flat. As this happens, less and less hydraulic pressure can be stored, and the pump has to be switched on at shorter and shorter intervals, thus the relay clicks more and more... it all sounds plausible to me...

So apparently it's as simple as removing the cylinder and taking it to a gas strut recharger to get recharged! Might cost all of ~$150 ?

At any rate, I'm now thinking it's not the pressure switch itself. And it's definitely not the pump. So the accumulator is the only thing left.

Beware if removing it - I know nothing about the correct procedure and the instructions on the canister warn against disassembly; I'm unsure whether removing it will vent the high-pressure gas or not. But I have been told by one forum member who says he has done it, that the procedure is to release the hydraulic pressure (with ignition OFF) by opening (CAREFULLY) the bleed nipple(s) on the attesa unit under the car to release the hydraulic pressure, and then once that's gone, to remove the gas canister and take it to be recharged.

Sounds all too good to be true. But I probably won't be able to say for sure myself whether this method will work because I'm probably just going to swap the whole damn lot for a known working unit which I got for a good price second-hand :)

here's hoping someone will try it and we'll solve this mystery once-and-for-all...

DaveB

Edited by DaveB

I decided to try to remove the accumulator anyway, since whatever I do on the car I'm going to have to remove it. Turns out it just unscrews like I was told. Had to use a G-clamp to get it off but I didn't need huge force or anything. Just make sure to remove the hydraulic pressure first via the bleeder (with ignition OFF) and you should be right.

So here's what an accumulator looks like:

post-32445-1263980646_thumb.jpg

that's the little SOB that causes the ATTESA relay to make all the noise. So annoying it is... not for much longer. The plan is that I'll just unscrew the accumulator on the car, and screw this new unit (well 2nd hand) on in place; it has a known working history so it should hopefully be charged up OK.

I'll probably see if I can get the garage to do it while it's on the hoist, as it's a bit of a pain to get to mine with my 3" exhaust hanging just under the diff'.

Edited by DaveB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...