Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking into buying a set of G4 coilovers for my 180sx, as these probably best suit my budget. Who has had much expericence with them, and have they had any problems.

ie. a mate of mine done less than 5000km on his set before one started leaking, also i have heard that people have had major trouble when it comes to warrenty when things do go wrong.

Any one have any suggestions about other brands of suspension that are in the same price range, thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176930-g4-coilovers/
Share on other sites

Pretty sure I read on this forum G4's and D2's are the same thing - different colour... apparently both made in China, basic valving and not the best quality...

From what I can gather Tein super streets are comparatively priced...? I also havent heard any complaints about the HSD's :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176930-g4-coilovers/#findComment-3236105
Share on other sites

A friend has the G4's in his 32.... extremely rough ride.. even with the damper all the way adjusted... worse than my Jap spec Teins which are only height adjustable....

Although.. he has never had any issues with them... possibly he hasn't set his up right though.. wouldn't of thought that they would be that stiff!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176930-g4-coilovers/#findComment-3236202
Share on other sites

So how much are these things? Because from experience I gotta say, if you can hold off another few months and save a bit more money to get a better product its well worth the wait.

100% agreed. These things are basically bottom of the barrel type things, do you really want that for such an important part of the car? And especially when good dampers for not much more.

Edited by salad
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176930-g4-coilovers/#findComment-3237099
Share on other sites

Friend had some g4s.. one shocked leaked from just normal driving under 2 months of use!! WOW..

but they replaced the whole shock for free.. so warranty wise they look after you..

however, they are pretty stiff when driving sydney roads..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176930-g4-coilovers/#findComment-3237562
Share on other sites

HSD, G4, D2 whatever you call it, my advice would be to drive a car with them installed then drive a car with something like bilsteins, or tein mono-flex. then make up your mind. there is a massive difference between them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176930-g4-coilovers/#findComment-3237585
Share on other sites

they are probably an ordinarily valved shock with very heavy spring rates to control the body movement.

people buy them and equate "Stiff" = "good handling"

Rule of thumb - run the lowest spring rates you can for what you want to do, and get the best shocks to control those springs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176930-g4-coilovers/#findComment-3237631
Share on other sites

HSD, G4, D2 whatever you call it, my advice would be to drive a car with them installed then drive a car with something like bilsteins, or tein mono-flex. then make up your mind. there is a massive difference between them.

Damn right.

I've had 3 different set ups in my car (88 cefiro). 1st when it came from japan, it has kei office adj coilovers, with 450lb front springs, and 350lb rears, it was stupid, they eventually leaked, so I got them rebuilt. The rebuild had the rear springs go to the front, and I bought some new rear springs. So this gave it 350lb fronts, 200lb rears, and shocks revalved (no longer adjustable) to suit those springs, this was a massive improvement over the kei office orginals.

I then had 3 of those 4 rebuilt shocks die in less than 12months. Which is when Sydney Kid got a call, explained whats good, what isnt and why. I've now got the bilsteins in (with the 350&200lb springs) and the again was MILES better. As in the ride was smoother, the car felt more stable, and its definately quicker around corners.

Seriously, just spend the money once, and buy the good stuff, get spring rates that suits the car. If you dont want roll, get thicker anti sway bars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176930-g4-coilovers/#findComment-3238248
Share on other sites

I have a set of G4's in my 32 and the only problem I have had is with the supplier screwing me around and giving me the wrong parts etc. The ride isn't too rough (I have 7(f) and 5®) and I really like them. Improved handling alot of adjustment in height and good bang for your buck. It is all well and good for people to pay them out but I find they are doing the job and am quite happy.

My 2 cents anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176930-g4-coilovers/#findComment-3238676
Share on other sites

two things that shit me about them

1/ they f**k up quickly - and need to be replaced, which is a PITA, and just after the warranty expires they die again, so you are stuck with worthless garbage that you can even sell

2/ they are a shit ride - really, for those of you who think they are good - get some decent coilovers in your ride and then say that again - you wont

They have no rebound adjustment, so when you adjust the dampening, you only adjust the bump - and the dampening adjustment only works for 50% of the range

For a few dollars more - HSD are MILES in front, they actually half decent shocks, half decent adjustment, and they will last alot longer than G4 (less headaches, less screwing around replacing under warranty, redo wheel alignment [more cost] etc, etc)

For a few dollars more you can get GAB or Buddy Club - as pointed out, and they are also miles in front of G4/D2 garbage

Or, if you dont want to spend more money, buy a decent shock and spring combo - minimal stuffing around (setting damping and heights) - they bolt in, they work

Most people dont want to, and dont know how to spend the time needed to set up coilovers well - they just want to be able to jump in and drive - if you fall into this category, definately consider a spring/shock combo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176930-g4-coilovers/#findComment-3238812
Share on other sites

leaking, knocking, car feels unstable or gets upset easily when going over bumps, back end feels loose, back end feels skittish, front end feels skittish, front end feels loose, car starts to understeer or oversteer (more than normal) all could be signs of suspension problems.. and more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176930-g4-coilovers/#findComment-3240720
Share on other sites

I have a set of G4's in my 32 and the only problem I have had is with the supplier screwing me around and giving me the wrong parts etc. The ride isn't too rough (I have 7(f) and 5®) and I really like them. Improved handling alot of adjustment in height and good bang for your buck. It is all well and good for people to pay them out but I find they are doing the job and am quite happy.

My 2 cents anyway.

i second that and i have bin in rides with tien and D1's. tiens where very nice but im still happy with my g4's

Aif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176930-g4-coilovers/#findComment-3252260
Share on other sites

Have had G4's in my S15 for about a year now, they are to stiff for me, and i'm not one to whinge about driveablility and exhaust noise blah blah.

It really does struggle to put the power down on average quality (most) roads. On a nice smooth track I'd imagine they would be fine.

Once I come across some money I will going the SK gear...

Edited by Shane
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176930-g4-coilovers/#findComment-3254216
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...