Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The other day when coming out of my work carpark, my car (r32, rb20det) lost all compression and moved like a slug.

I dropped it off at my mechanic who has just informed me that it has extremely low compression and a rattling noise in the engine. This means that it isn't combusting fuel properly and well...just not going.

I think that I have two options now:

1. Strip down the engine and find out what's going on

2. Replace the engine

Would anyone have any suggestions in what could have happened? Or any other options I might have?

Thanks.

Option 1: Would mean labour costs plus rebuild if your intending to keep the RB20 and add forgies

Option 2: Replace it with a second hand RB25DET or another RB20 if your tight on funds, make sure you get a leak down and compression test on them before purchase.

i'll personally prefer a cheap RB25 and wack it in there.,

Were you giving it stick at the time of coming out the car park? Generally speaking motors just dont die and lose compression like that unless they have detonated (cracked ring lands, bottom end bearing and various other things could be damaged) or your oil pump has died causing bearings to run dry and spin.

If the motor is stuffed, i'd look into replacing it with an Rb25 (minus the box) and take it from there, you can get them for around 2200 with ecu and loom + all bolt ons.

I like GT shortie's second option.

Rb20s are cheap as chips (<1k). Rb25, more.

If I were to blow my engine, that's the option i'd be taking. Sure, building an engine will make a stronger engine, but they cost a lot. The stock one will take a good whack of power if you look after it.

i'll look into swapping to another rb20. i've already got all the supporting systems for it and it'll probably be an easier swap without having to worry as much about wiring etc.

are compression and leakdown tests able to be conducted on an engine not in a car?

by all means put in a second hand RB20, BUT make sure you figure out why the first one went bang so you don't do it to the new one (ie, dud fuel pump? bad tune? broken injectors?...)

well, everything was given the twice over and it came back to the engine itself. the fuel pump, injectors and tune were apparantely retested and still running a stoich mixture but the engine is just losing compression somewhere. there is also a worrying rattle inside the engine somewhere which sounds like a loose bearing.

For the price of a 25..

you can get a 20.. and some nice mods..

Better off spending money on a 20 and mods..

see if you can repair the 20 and sell to make a little bit of money for more mods..

well, everything was given the twice over and it came back to the engine itself. the fuel pump, injectors and tune were apparantely retested and still running a stoich mixture but the engine is just losing compression somewhere. there is also a worrying rattle inside the engine somewhere which sounds like a loose bearing.

well it shouldn't be running a stoichiometric AFR anywhere except at cruise (light throttle, low load) if it's running stoich anywhere else then you have big problems.

anyway, I would do your best to pin point exactly what killed the motor as it wont be much funning fitting a new one then going through it all again.

it's running stoich at low load and off boost and a tad rich on boost. not sure of the exact afr's tho.

would it be worth paying for the motor to be stripped down to find out what's wrong before going further?

If they just tested ur fuel pump by adding power and not running in a motor it doesnt mean too much.. Could have been leaning out under boost and running to lean for a while. GTS4WD U could get another with some mods, to catch up to a 25 and then some. Or u could just get the 25 and the base right there for some really good potential. All comes down to how much cash u wanna spend. Spend ur cash now on a 25 and get better results later with mods or spend the same amount on a 20 with mods and have more power than a stock 25 with lower gains for all the mods u do in the future.

Liam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Um.... This is not easy. I will have a fiddle with it, but make no promises. I think, given the explicit resistances vs temperature, and your ECU measured voltages, it should be possible to match them up. I will do that by assuming a 5V supply from ECU to sensor, find out how much current would have to flow to produce that voltage, then use that current as a .... nah f**k. That won't work. The supply voltage is fixed, but there's nothing to say that the ECU regulates the current too. Um... I dunno. I guess there's a voltage divider setup in the ECU. As in, there's another resistance between the ECU's sense terminal and ground. That way, as the sensor resistance changes, that's how they get a floating voltage that varies with the temperature, without having to control the current. Give me a minute or 3.
    • *that* is a question for chatgpt (or someone that understands maths....but I'd try chatty). Drop them the table and ask for the formula
    • Alright. Exhaust has been looked at, and booked in 'soon'. I'm not 100% convinced it's going to be as good as possible but I'm going to go with it anyway. If I get a reasonable thing that works for 10 years I mean that's twice as long as I've lived with the current one. I have a more pressing issue. I have fixed my MPVI3 (by buying a new one). Excellently, one can wire in analog 0-5v inputs to the ECU itself. I had wideband already via Serial so I also wired it in via the direct input. The idea being I can use the standalone logging without a laptop and have Wideband data in it. The other wire I thought I'd use oil temp. This is where I've gone crazy. HPTuners requires you to implement a formula so you know how much volts = how much temp. This seems relatively simple to me. However I cannot find the scale for this anywhere on the internet, nor decipher how to figure it out without removing the sensor from the car. All I know is that voltage actually goes up as temperature goes down. I am using the actual gauge, so I can see what the temp is. The signal wire has been branched off into the MPVI3. EXAMPLE: 2.68v = 58C 2.7 = 57C 2.74v = 56C 2.8V = 54C 3.06V = 49C 3.18V = 47C 3.37V = 43C I think the gauge is 50-150C. It may be more. It may be less, because I can't find it for the love of f**k. It appears all the information about the gauges I have has been scoured from the internet, but the sender is VDO 320.021 I believe the resistance chart is this How the f**k do I convert this to a voltage? Once I have a voltage... I then have to perform this transform of said voltage to show it in the scanner: https://www.hptuners.com/help/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm @GTSBoy you're probably my only hope here TEST YOUR MIGHT
    • Here’s the updated and installed muse replica nismo ones … very happy with the outcome. Eventhough I painted my whole rear end due to my rich idle lol. 
    • Hmm. I had a good look (w/o searching, because I'm not logging in) and couldn't see it either. I distinctly recall the thread, not many weeks ago. It must have been removed or perhaps put into the back section. If it was in Off Topic you should at least have been able to search it up. So if I'm not hallucinating, it is fairly decently removed.
×
×
  • Create New...