Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just letting everyone know before you read on that this WASN'T my engine, but an engine that I bought from someone that blew theirs. I got it cheap, and the Head is in excellent condition (ported etc)

Hi everyone, I just pulled down a RB25 that had a bottom end failure (Spun every main bearing, and some big end bearings)

Are these pistons ok? There are a few marks on the skirts. The rest of the pistons look like new.

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

6.jpg

7.jpg

8.jpg

Can the skirts be cleaned up?

The bores have these marks on them obviously where the piston skirts have been rubbing. Is this normal? I've seen other engines like this, so I assume so? There are no deep grooves in the bores like there are on the pistons.

1.jpg

2.jpg

ok, here is the rest of the bits you'll want to see.

Looks at the cradle........ fark..

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

6.jpg

7.jpg

8.jpg

9.jpg

10.jpg

11.jpg

12.jpg

Edited by The Mafia

looks like a poor rebuild..... all bearings plus the above hey?

i hazzard poor (excessive) piston to bore clearance hence the rocking and scuffing, burns and breaths the oil then does the bottom end.... or was it cooked?

pistons should be ok providing the did not scuff too bad, mic up the skirt then compare it to 3 or 4mm below ring lands, are the ring lands damage free?

actually, engine went for 20,000kms before the car was sold, and the new owner was supposedly doing lots of rev limiter burnouts. (only had the car for 2 weeks before it blew.

He said he found 2l of oil in the catch can.

I assume this was another "all the oil in the head \ catch can and sump starved" oiling issue.

i'd throw most of it out :)

I am going to, going to keep the head and pistons.

I just want to know if the pistons are ok to use.

Edited by The Mafia
I am going to, going to keep the head and pistons.

I just want to know if the pistons are ok to use.

No toss them out . You can re-use the block as long as you bore it to suit the next oversize pistons . I can sell you a set just like them if you like, you can have them for FREE ....

other than the scrape marks that look normal, I can't see the problem re-using them?

Mind you, there are a couple of grooves.

Wouldn't mind hearing what a few engine builders have got to say.

This doesn't make sense?

The block is buggered. The Bearing cradles are rooted.

The pistons are stuffed too and you cant do anything about that. You can re-bore the block as long as its 76-86.5 mm to the next oversize .

If you have to you can tunnel bore the cradle as well .

other than the scrape marks that look normal, I can't see the problem re-using them?

Mind you, there are a couple of grooves.

Wouldn't mind hearing what a few engine builders have got to say.

Yeh i think that would be your best bet mate def ask a few engine builders and see what they have to say.

you mean bore to accomadate sleeves for the next size bore. otherwise the engine wont last too long.

boring says good bye to cast hardness and for RB's goodbye to nitride hardening.

are you able to explain this in a little more detail?

Edited by The Mafia
you mean bore to accomadate sleeves for the next size bore. otherwise the engine wont last too long.

boring says good bye to cast hardness and for RB's goodbye to nitride hardening.

Since when are the blocks hardened or nitrided from the factory?

Not sure which part of my post you want me to explain more, but:

Cast iron (cast anything infact) - soft on the inside and hard on the outside. depending on the size of the cast but generally speaking you don't want to bore out a cast block because at least you are making the hard walls thinner.

Nitriding - the cyclinder surface is hardened using nitriding, expensive to get the cylinders re-nitrided. and it is a key reason why the cylinders are so durable in RB engines.

Cast iron and nitriding = very hard and durable surface. depending on the amount of material removed from the walls ( if you get them bored) would decide on how much you degrade this surface.

The practicle way of getting past this is simply boring to a size that allows you to insert cylinder sleeves which come ready hardened!

hope i answered any of the q's you had,

EDIT: i thought the cylinders were nitrided also, but if i'm wrong it doesn't really matter because sleeving is used to combat the problems of boring in to cast. same outcome.

Edited by deant1

Rb blocks can be bored to 87 mm without any issues, of course you would only go to 86.5 mm if the block is 86 mm now .

Sleeving will make it much stronger but its very costly..

There is no way I would re-use these pistons if I was to do a re-build

Even if the pistons were perfect you would have to re-use them in that block , don't forget Nissan pistons are graded so they are different sizes even in stock virgin engines .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone. Is there a way I can get the original window sticker (maroney label) for my 1995 R33 GTST? I doubt I’ll be able to ever get it but it’s worth a shot to ask
    • Have a vb in honour of the car comming back
    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
×
×
  • Create New...