Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mike, thats a very broad area you are talking about.

Give us an idea of what sort of parts you are looking for and we will be able to point you in the right direction.

Also, assuming you are going for a holiday, where will you be spending most of your time?

Cheers,

Nick

Hello Blitz

Yeah I have a r33 gtr v and want to put a new motor in with all the bits ie n1 long motor r33 or r34 nur and gearbox . Original mtr 45k old probably could work that one but want a better one (old fool to much $)

I have heard you can get ones built . Can arrange my own shipping.

Just want to know reputable places to buy an engine with some personally speaking Tomei pistons HKS 2530's HKS V-cam,manifolds, dumps, plenum, etc . Might work out cheaper buying a fully built one?.

Do you know if Nismo sell them direct to the public. Tomei sell a few stages (bloody expensive). AG/Y sell gearboxes/engines There are a few others I have found on the net.

Sorry I didn't spell out what bits I wanted but hope this clarifies it .

Just wanting to here from you guys in Japan in the know and would appreciate your advise.

Was going on Saturday for a week but had to cancel it at the last minute.

Now I would rather spend more time over there as I used to travel there a lot in my twenties (80s) and hope to go for 3 weeks from around the 6th of September hopefully some car shows

Intend to use car on track and have a Sydneykid suspension kit going on shortly. Should be a hoot.

Any suggestions would be good.

Thanks

Mike

mike, to be honest I think you're much better off buying an engine here and building it with japanese parts.

you could buy and fit:

tomei or HKS 2.8 litre kit

replace oil and water pumps

sump mods

oil system mods

cams

and have a motor better than an Nissan N1 motor and cost less. modifying cars and getting motors built in japan is expensive.

My friend is currently putting a new motor in his 32 GTR in japan. the motor was not too expensive new from nissan but by the time a few bits are done, and added and tuned etc you are looking at $20K... Plus a motor built in japan, if it fails what do you do? Better to look at one of the top shops here and hve one built with japanese parts.

Thanks Beer Baron

I was thinking of wall thicknesses when you bore them out and didn' want any suprises later on.

Would changing out block only which isn't a lot of cash also my first thought be better or strip down original block and check it ( I am a spanner monkey) for cracks etc.

Doing my sums you could as you say build an engine better then say a tomei motor for less with some solid gear. Need a good machine shop.

Some N1 oil pumps are $400 others $900 which is the real deal.

Is buying bits in Japan and mailing it back to Oz any cheaper than internet buying if you are prepared to travel around.

Sorry for all the questions just gleaning more info for trip.

Thanks for your help

Mike

actually depending on where you shop buying the stuff on line will be cheaper than japanese retail. unless you know people in japan or can speak some japanese to deal with performance shops it will be hard to get really cheap prices on stuff.

wall thickness is no big problem. if your engine has never been rebuilt before just go to 86.5mm bore that is only 0.25mm out of the wall thickness and with a 2.8 kit it will be nicer than most rebuilt 2.6s. without some language and lots of time and some contacts it's not worth wasting too much time in japan chasing cheap parts. there are so many other things worth doing. and with the advent of the internet you can shop just as cheaply from here :laugh:

yeah trying to tee up big parts like engines etc, add to that the language barrier, payment, organising shipping etc. also most companies will not be too willing to do something like that on a one off bassis. they are more interested in big, repeat customers. but by all means buy some parts, it can be fun too. but there is so much else to see, do, eat, drink, try in japan.

I did get an email reply from a big shop offering a long eng r33 N1 or R34nur (whats the difference), for around Yen 560000 for either engine plus shipping customs

All together still big money I guess.

By the time you add on all the rest would'nt see much change out of er 20k.

Hope my blocks good ha ha.

Have good memories of Japan so the trip should be good

Mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
    • The stock manifold is "mostly" divided. The divider actually has a notch cut out of it where it would meet the divider on a twin scroll housing. I have no idea why. But whatever the reason, it would cause some cross talk when used with a twin scroll housing. People do put twin scroll housings onto that manifold. But I'm of the opinion that proper twin scroll internal gating is...not really possible at this scale. You'd be throwing good effort (ie $$) after bad, when you really should be doing something else. Notwithstanding that.... I am not sure what the idea that you are floating has to do with the difference in comp cover position caused by the highflow using a shorter length core than the stock Hitachi one. Can you clarify what you meant?
    • Majority of regulars are > 30. We all act at least 50. Definitely not friendly as we're all grumpy. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...