Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm new to the forum and I am in the market for a 4door R34 GT-T. But I've got a couple of questions - I've run a search and have been unable to find the answer, but please excuse me if it has been said before! I've owned a fair few other cars but i'm not very familiar with skylines.. yet!

I will be going to look at some next weekend but for now I am wondering..

Do the 4 doors have the same power as the coupes? wikipedia says the gt-t has 280 hp

Also how good/reliable are the 4sp tiptronics? I'd love a manual but it looks like the sedans only came with the 4sp.. what're the opinions on these?

I have also noticed in some photos of cars for sale most of them have something weird stuck on the left side of the back window, with what looks like a cable running down into the boot - what's the go with that? something for compliance?

Sorry in advance if the questions are a bit noobish!

cheers

Edited by macster
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177572-r34-4-door-questions/
Share on other sites

welcome mate

here's some info from the R34 brochure it should answer any specs you want to know

i'v olny ever seen the four doors in auto/tiptronic,but some of the guys/girls just do a conversion or upgrade the auto box(shift kit)

but it depends on what the car is for of course

in regards to the thing one the window see if you can get a pic,so people can see what you see

post-36370-1185073117_thumb.jpg

post-36370-1185073230_thumb.jpg

post-36370-1185073370_thumb.jpg

post-36370-1185073508_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

4dr and coupes have the exact same engine and hence same power output. 4drs being just slightly heavier obviously so power to weight ratio is jst a little lower than a coupe. The tiptronics are great but obviously depending on how much power you plan on running there are various ways to strengthen the box. Also 4drs come in manuals too, you just need to look a bit harder and pay a bit more :)

As for the thing in the back window, no idea what you are talking about..a pic might help.

Thanks for those scans and info guys! I'm leaning towards a 4door r34 as i reckon it's a good alternative to buying something like an xr6 turbo - alot more better looking and certainly less common on the roads.

found out the back window thing is a tv aerial :)

Edited by macster

sigh, just get it, you'll love it, i have an NA 4 door r34 25gt, and its mad, specially with a pod at 5k revs, anyway ur lookin at a gt-T which is hella better, its gonna be good jus do it lol, manual would be great, but tiptronic is pretty fun too

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys,

I'm new to this site.

I have a few more questions.

There is an r34 sedan I'm really keen on buying - Non-turbo, tiptronic.

1. What are the most common problems with the R34 in general small to major?

2. How does the performance compare to a normal V6 Commodore in terms of acceleration/overtaking because I intend on taking the car on country trips.

3. Are the cars fitted with an immobiliser as standard or a factory option?

4. Should I be suspicious if the controls look heavily worn out, even though the odo says 102,000km? (Seats look next to brand new, the pedals do not seem worn out and the carpet seems in decent condition) - I'm worried about the odo being clocked back. Steering seems nice and tight (no play).

5. Availabilty of components in general? (I intend on keeping the car stock).

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...
another question is whats the fuel consumption like ( in standard tune )

I get about 450kms and then put in 60L to fill the tank again. Mind you I haven't really exactly been driving economically!

Also a question guys - how do you remove an R34 headlight? I can unbolt it but can't seem to pull it out past the front bumper...

couldn't find anything on search either

Hi guys,

I'm new to this site.

I have a few more questions.

There is an r34 sedan I'm really keen on buying - Non-turbo, tiptronic.

1. What are the most common problems with the R34 in general small to major?

2. How does the performance compare to a normal V6 Commodore in terms of acceleration/overtaking because I intend on taking the car on country trips.

3. Are the cars fitted with an immobiliser as standard or a factory option?

4. Should I be suspicious if the controls look heavily worn out, even though the odo says 102,000km? (Seats look next to brand new, the pedals do not seem worn out and the carpet seems in decent condition) - I'm worried about the odo being clocked back. Steering seems nice and tight (no play).

5. Availabilty of components in general? (I intend on keeping the car stock).

Cheers

Hey man, i probably can't answer many of these but I do know the non turbo has 140kw stock. So it's probably slower than any commodore newer than a VR. I would also be suspicious of worn looking controls. My GTT has 56,000km and everything on it looks and feels new. You can never be sure if a car has been wound back or not (even mine could have) but you should go more on the condition of the car rather than the KM's.

  • 3 weeks later...

I've got one, thanks to the boys at Autoworx in Perth.

R34 GTT manual sedan... Happy as a pig in sh*t myself.. They are awesome, as macsta said, they are a great alternative to an SV6 or an XR6 (T/nonT) and as we know, teh NISSAN is much HOTTER! Mine is a conversion and as has been said, if done properly, it isn't a problem at all, fun to drive, nippy and just a real pleasure to be in really... However, I'm getting about 400km/tank to about 440km/tank, the fuel efficiency isn't as good as the Aussie cars, but a few mods (chip/ecu, 3"exhaust, AFM, 02 sensor, intercooler, EBC and a decent tune) will find you clock some decent miles per tank even whilst having plenty of fun under the bonnet.

Hey man, i probably can't answer many of these but I do know the non turbo has 140kw stock. So it's probably slower than any commodore newer than a VR. I would also be suspicious of worn looking controls. My GTT has 56,000km and everything on it looks and feels new. You can never be sure if a car has been wound back or not (even mine could have) but you should go more on the condition of the car rather than the KM's.

They actually have 147kw at the fly and according to HPI they did a test against a VX commodore and a 34 and the 34 won on the straights and the twisties. This is for the non turbo model.

My post is twofold. Firstly as an owner of the R34 GTT tipo sedan NA and bear in mind I have a very limited knowledge of vehicle mechanics.

from personal experience I have had some troubles with the concept of moving from NA to forced induction and swapping the stock tiptronic transmission out - only because - still not sure if the standard tip transmission can cope with performance increases - and if it can, to what sort of figures. for info on moving to forced induction check out the thread in... gasp... forced induction under the root dir.

my car wasnt fitted as standard with an immobiliser - insurance from justcars (through AAMI) demands an immobiliser if your going to go through them - only place I could get decent priced insurance for an import - im 24.

condition of the car - all depending on how careful the driver was. I got mine with 65 on the clock and the overall condition was immaculate. sad to say im a grub and its looking like crap now.

the steering SHOULD be solid until the car has a stack - ive bumped mine on 2 gutters being a wang and had broken upper control arms, bushes, etc and it cost a pretty penny for new parts - OEM were hard to find. after new parts and before wheel balancing I had terrible steering. back to where it was now - nice and solid. im fearful of playing the fool on the roads ever again - but I learned a damn good (read expensive) lesson.

pretty much anything you want to replace can be found in a reasonably priced third party version that will exceed the OEM parts strength, reliability and performance envelopes. Dont be afraid of going third party, but depending on the parts, OEM MAY be hard to find.

Second half of post... can someone give me a rundown on whats going on with the ducting at the front right (as seen) of the engine bay? I havent seen this around.

post-43184-1192091645_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...