Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm desperate for advice and this forum looked active.

I'm no expert on cars, But I've damaged my friends Mercedes and i've left three dents on the bonnet and I've offered to pay him back.

I've not been able to get pictures of the dents but this is a picture of his car and i've shown where they are on the bonnet. You have to look fairly closely to notice they are there. The two in the middle are just shallow depressions and i'm not too worried about those.

But there is one right on the slope that i'm concerned with because it's in an awkward position. Is it possible with the metal body of this model compared to modern caes to remove these dents with Paintless Dent Removal? I've read it is much cheaper and looks tidier than panel beating but I don't know whether it's going to be of use in this situation.

So my main questions are:

  • Given the different metal body material rather than the plastic compound with flexi paint, can Paintless Dent Removal be used on this car.
  • How much am I looking to pay for for each dent or overall. (2 shallow depressions and one dent on the slope of the bonnet)

Thanks.

carcopy.jpg

Edited by Scholes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177595-dent-removal-for-a-merc/
Share on other sites

first thing u need to establish is if the paint has cracked or creased at any point in the dent. if it has, then its panel beating time. u can't leave the paint cracked, it'll let water in underneath, bubble, rust and then flake off.

if its not cracked then u are a chance at paintless repair. it all comes down to how malleable the metal is. different parts of the panel have different 'tensions'. think of a coke can - if u put a dent in the side its easy to 'pop' it out - cos this part of the metal has a lot of natural tension, it 'wants' to pop back out. but put one in the edge near the ends tho, and its very difficult.

so that being said, the shallow dents should be a breeze. the one on the crease, is going to bemore difficult. they might be able to get most of it out, but you will probably be still left with an indent, possibly a crease line.

i got some shallow dents in my 1/4 panel popped out, cost 110 bucks. the more dents the cheaper it is. i'd say about 200-250 for the job you're showing me.

it'll just be a matter of how picky ur mate is. he might not be happy with the end result, in which case, its panel beating time.

I possibly wouldn't even call the one on the crease line a dent, and I'm happy to say that the paint is fine.

The crease line one is not a dent as if somethings hit it. It looks like somethings rolled over it and just changed the shape of the metal slightly.

Hopefully all is well and panel beating isn't needed.

my boss has a 300c, a branch fell of a tree and landed on his bonnet....long story short. he had a few dents on awkward parts of his bonnet, got one of those paintless dent removal dudes out...spent about an hour and presto...youd never even know even under strong bright light.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...