Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK every base has been covered with the car, no leaks in the piping, HKS actuator set at 15psi (and 11psi)

This is what I'm faced with (see below)....initial comments on my car was it's very quiet for a 3" turbo back system.

I'm convinced it's too much back-pressure slowing the turbine down and boost dropping off.

Comments please :thumbsup:

post-1182-1185141113_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177679-confirm-my-exhaust-restriction/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Do you have an EBC? And what sort of exhaust do you have?

Have a look at the exhaust, do you have a hi-flow cat, mandrel bends, how many and what kind of mufflers (design and diameter). Dropping boost usually means a restriction somewhere, my exhaust is pretty loud but holds 12psi all the way to redline. My rotor has a fairly muffled 3" system with some crush bends, and it can't hold onto the boost to redline.

Fixxxer

Has a CES split dump, mandrel 3" the CAT should be a 3" highflow (installed by CES) doesn't have a hotdog it's a proper baffel toward the rear but the magnaflow twin tip is where I think I'm coming unstuck.

One run was done with EBC another with purely HKS actuator setting, also displayed the same behaviour with a turbotech bleedvalve, the stock actuator and trying an RB20 actuator.

I've got a nice free-flowing exhaust with cannon as a loaner to put on to confirm my suspicions.

seems awefully similar to mine

190rwkw 14psi dropping to 12psi

manifold was cracked and replaced, rear Fujitsubo was causing a restricition - added a highflow 3inch Kakimoto muffler and all is fine now. Just got to retune it, soon hopefully.

Hey Dan

One important thing that we need to know first. What turbo are you running?

I remember you telling me that its the slide highflow, but which one (rb25, rb25 oversize, vg, vg oversize).

Even the smallest one on 15 psi should make a fair amount more than that. On 15 psi, a car we did got around 225 rwkw (after tune).

Best way to find out, to just crack the catback off (including the cat) and see HOW restrictive it is

It's the VG30 oversize, it pretty much looks like as the engine is starting to get going then the exhaust is restricting like hell.

I'd be expecting over 200rwkw at 11psi

A mate is giving me his system to try on the car, should answer the question instantly.

Whoever has heard my car would agree it's spookily quiet for 3" system :cool:

Whoever has heard my car would agree it's spookily quiet for 3" system :cool:

so was mine.... centre to offset muffle, muffled big time. very quiet.

got a 2ndhand Kakimoto 3inch centre to centre straight thru muffler off a GTR. niiiiice. $65 delivered from WA.

welded it on, nice sound, restriction gone. set at 14psi but seen 15psi in a cold valley with foot down mashn the pedal.

stage1 slide rb25 highflow turbo

For what it's worth Dan, Me thinks it's not the exhaust...... With my stocka, and almost identical exhaust to yours I am getting 176rwkw.

OK every base has been covered with the car, no leaks in the piping, HKS actuator set at 15psi (and 11psi)

This is what I'm faced with (see below)....initial comments on my car was it's very quiet for a 3" turbo back system.

I'm convinced it's too much back-pressure slowing the turbine down and boost dropping off.

Comments please :cool:

post-1182-1185141113_thumb.jpg

Mine does this too

boosts to 12psi and tapers off to 9psi (got 195.5rwkws)

also a r34 gtt and also very quiet for a 3" turbo back exhaust

I thought maybe my cat had shit itself

im going to make a new cat section and try that out

For what it's worth Dan, Me thinks it's not the exhaust...... With my stocka, and almost identical exhaust to yours I am getting 176rwkw.

It's not identical Pete, we've got different mufflers...yours is bigger. You've always had a better flowing exhaust than my one. You'r boost went through the roof after installing it, my stock turbo never really budged.

This is 100% exhaust restriction, I just wanted a few others to confirm.

Nothing else on the car can account for what's happening.

I suspect that it is exhaust restriction, but I don't think anyone can really say for certain.

When you knock the exhaust off and swap it with your friends, make sure you do the cat too. Some 'high flow' cats are not really high flow at all.

Your car is quite a bit down on power in terms of what it 'should' be making. After swapping exhausts, if you feel a lot more power, and response, then that means it was the exhaust :cool:

umm .. not sure why nobody has commented on this before

why dont you just disconnect your Exhaust from where it bolts onto the dump from the turbo ?

its going to be loud as hell .. and *might* run a bit lean .. but if the restriction is as massive as your leading it on to be .. a quick run on the dyno should be able to confirm if its pumping out much more horsepower. Even the " seat of the pants " dyno will tell you pretty quickly.

just support the remaining portions of the exhaust if your going to road test it and be careful and you should be ok ..

Obviously doing this on the dyno where you can keep an eye on mixtures etc will be the better way of doing it .

I suspect that it is exhaust restriction, but I don't think anyone can really say for certain.

When you knock the exhaust off and swap it with your friends, make sure you do the cat too. Some 'high flow' cats are not really high flow at all.

Your car is quite a bit down on power in terms of what it 'should' be making. After swapping exhausts, if you feel a lot more power, and response, then that means it was the exhaust :)

x2 'hi flow' cat is too much of general term everyone seems to be classifying their cats as, when most probably flow a lot less in comparison with quality hi flow metal cats that cost $350+

umm .. not sure why nobody has commented on this before

why dont you just disconnect your Exhaust from where it bolts onto the dump from the turbo ?

its going to be loud as hell .. and *might* run a bit lean .. but if the restriction is as massive as your leading it on to be .. a quick run on the dyno should be able to confirm if its pumping out much more horsepower. Even the " seat of the pants " dyno will tell you pretty quickly.

just support the remaining portions of the exhaust if your going to road test it and be careful and you should be ok ..

Obviously doing this on the dyno where you can keep an eye on mixtures etc will be the better way of doing it .

I said that above in my first reply.

I always do that even if the power is where I expect it to be.

Every exhaust IS a restriction. What matters is whether it is a restriction at that power level. e.g. your quite 3" exhaust shoudl flow more than the standard exhaust. At standard pwoer levels, it is most likely that it won't pose much restriction at all. But then, at 200 rwkw, 250 rwkw, or 300 rwkw, the restriction will become evident

That's why I always take it off and do a back to back run just to see how much restriction there is.

ok. you need to unsrew your cat converter heat sensor and scre in a suitible fitting to mesure actual back pressure. also is it an apexi boost controler? cos they do that, it is electronic?

if its a bleed valve then thats normal. and all the vac lines to come from the inlet manifold or it will do that to.

ok.. try setting the boost controler to 4 pound higher. iff it still drops off the same amouint, then its the boost controler setting.

also adjust the gain to max, then adjust the boost setting. always the gain has to be max to stop the boost dropping off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...