Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SPECIAL GROUP BUY OFFER FOR SAU !!!

I've managed to strike a good deal with BrakeWest in Sunshine Victoria on braided brake hose lines and pads.

BrakeWest are a wholesaler who deal directly to the public.

These Braided brake Lines are manufactured in AUSTRALIA, are 100% STREET LEGAL and are BRAND NEW.

They are 100% fully compliant with Australian Design rules (ADR).

ADR approved 7/00

CRN: 30886

Machine: 0058

*** 12 month / 20,000km warranty !!! ***

CAM approved hoses can now be ordered with metal fittings for heavy track cars

Please Note:

ADR braided hoses suit street or light trackwork and are street legal

CAM approved hoses suit heavy track use and ARE NOT street legal

Models available (Braided Hoses):

R32 GTST

R32 GTR

R33 GTR

R33 GTST

R34 GTT

Stagea - FRONTS ONLY - $110 delivered

S13

Cefiro

$195 for a full set of hoses including delivery

Hoses will be shipped out the day after payment is received.

--------------------- !! NOW SELLING BRAKE PADS TOO !! ---------------------

Queensland friction material (QFM) is a Queensland Australia based disc brake pad manufacturer.

The emphasis at QFM has been to develop high quality disc brake pads at highly competative prices.

The ongoing research and development of existing and new friction material is performed at the QFM Nerang facilities. New friction materials are continually developed and tested as part of the QFM commitment to quality and Performance.

Quality QFM disc brake pads have earned the reputation in the trade of being a FIT AND FORGET product, with high levels of customer satisfaction.

A range of disc pads are available for performance applications, THE K750 FORMULATION HAS BEEN VERY POPULAR WITH LIGHT CAR RACING ENTHUSIASTS.

The high performance pads (500 degree) are equivelent performance-wise to Bendix Ultimates, but should last roughly twice as long. The high performance pads also produce about 90% less dust then the Bendix Ultimates.

The track day pads (750 degree) can handle approximately 100 more degrees than the EBC greens. They will also last roughly twice as long as the EBC greens and have about half the dust.

Obviously all these figures depend on your driving style, but these are a rough estimate.

Models Available (Brake Pads):

R32 GTR (non brembo)

R33 GTST

R34 GTT

NOTE: The K750 pads, even though track pads, are still suitable for every day driving

Individual Prices (fronts and rears are sold seperately and are the same price):

K750 (A1RM) Track Day Pads (i use these on my 360kw gtr) - $110 delivered !

K500 High Performance Pads - $75 delivered !

Package 1:

1 x Full set of ADR approved braided hoses

1 x K750 Front Pads

1 x K750 Rear Pads

$395 Delivered !

Package 2:

1 x Full set of ADR approved braided hoses

1 x K500 Front Pads

1 x K500 Rear Pads

$330 Delivered !

The group buy will run between 14th April and 15th May... Taking orders now...

Edited by markk
  • Replies 433
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i may be in depending on funds.

are these the ones available on ebay as well?

I spoke to BrakeWest this morning and they confirmed that they do sell their hoses on Ebay. They also informed me that as of next week their prices are going up to.

Remember this is a group buy so the more people in, the better for everyone as we all get a better price.

cheaper on ebay to buy outright and a lot cheaper to buy from japan $200 delivered.

i will support the group buy if the price can be dropped to compensate

Mate if you can get these for $200 from Japan then good luck to you.

Are the hoses in Japan ADR approved?

If you have an accident and your insurance company checks your braided hoses, what happens?

What if cops pull you over and check the car?

At least i know that im buying from a trusted local dealer who makes their own ADR approved hoses and will be there to help out if i have any problems.

I brought a set of these from Brake West, they where perfect.

Theres my proof right there....

I looked at the NISMO ones on Nengun, They where cheaper but when I asked about ADR compliance I was told that they weren't. So I went with the Brake West set and got them over night (not in six weeks).

https://www.rhdjapan.com/home/products/prod...product_id=2030

Mate if you can get these for $200 from Japan then good luck to you.

Are the hoses in Japan ADR approved?

If you have an accident and your insurance company checks your braided hoses, what happens?

What if cops pull you over and check the car?

At least i know that im buying from a trusted local dealer who makes their own ADR approved hoses and will be there to help out if i have any problems.

Theres my proof right there....

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...