Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Gurus Please Check My Shopping List

NickR33

By NickR33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I recently spun a big end bearing in my RB25 at a track day... this is the second time I have had to rebuild so it was a relatively fresh engine (25,000km)... I have already been over most of this but wanted to throw it open to the whole forum, see thread here for more info http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=173225

I don't know whether the problem is oil starvation, oil contamination or misassembly from the previous build... so I'm going to try and cover all 3 with this build... I don't have any pics of the bearings but #2 took most of the punishment ... my mechanic and myself will be doing everything excluding machining so I need all the info I can get

engine will be used on the street as well as frequently at circuits and motorkhanas... will only be pushing 200rwkw for the time being but when my bank balance recovers we will be going for no more than 300rwkw... reliability is the number 1 thing I want to achive, I want to be able to thrash the living hell out of it and not have to take the engine out again any time soon (ever if possible! pain in the butt to take an RB out!)

parts list:

New RB26 crank

ACL race bearings (no more aluminium!)

Eagle rods with ARP bolts

Arias pistons and rings (already in there from last build)

N1 oil pump

N1 water pump

ACL gaskets

Nismo engine mounts (current ones are shagged)

Oil cooler (yes I should have already had one!)

oil control:

block off front oil feed to head, 1.25mm restrictor in other oil feed, leave VCT feed alone

external oil drain from back of head to sump

clean up of oil galleries for improved flow

That's about it but I have a couple of questions:

is the JUN oil pump worth $450 more than the N1? I am happy to pay the extra as long as its not just for the brand name...

If I were to go a stroker crank would the extra .3 of a litre be worth an extra $2000? been thinking of RB30 but that would be a similar additional cost as I would have to buy new pistons

in the other thread there was some argument about a baffled sump, do I need one?

Cheers,

Nick

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

I am sure you have already thought of it but RB30DET :) then no need for rb26 crank

the cost of the build would be nearly the same. you would loose VCT but the extra capacity is a big bonus

BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted
Hi guys,

I recently spun a big end bearing in my RB25 at a track day... this is the second time I have had to rebuild so it was a relatively fresh engine (25,000km)... I have already been over most of this but wanted to throw it open to the whole forum, see thread here for more info http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=173225

I don't know whether the problem is oil starvation, oil contamination or misassembly from the previous build... so I'm going to try and cover all 3 with this build... I don't have any pics of the bearings but #2 took most of the punishment ... my mechanic and myself will be doing everything excluding machining so I need all the info I can get

engine will be used on the street as well as frequently at circuits and motorkhanas... will only be pushing 200rwkw for the time being but when my bank balance recovers we will be going for no more than 300rwkw... reliability is the number 1 thing I want to achive, I want to be able to thrash the living hell out of it and not have to take the engine out again any time soon (ever if possible! pain in the butt to take an RB out!)

parts list:

New RB26 crank

ACL race bearings (no more aluminium!)

Eagle rods with ARP bolts

Arias pistons and rings (already in there from last build)

N1 oil pump

N1 water pump

ACL gaskets

Nismo engine mounts (current ones are shagged)

Oil cooler (yes I should have already had one!)

oil control:

block off front oil feed to head, 1.25mm restrictor in other oil feed, leave VCT feed alone

external oil drain from back of head to sump

clean up of oil galleries for improved flow

That's about it but I have a couple of questions:

is the JUN oil pump worth $450 more than the N1? I am happy to pay the extra as long as its not just for the brand name...

If I were to go a stroker crank would the extra .3 of a litre be worth an extra $2000? been thinking of RB30 but that would be a similar additional cost as I would have to buy new pistons

in the other thread there was some argument about a baffled sump, do I need one?

Cheers,

Nick

I think a baffled sump would help when doing track work. Also slightly over filling the sump helps too.

RB30 you don't need new pistons for 200-300rwkW if you get a good rb30, you just need the pistons ceramic coated.

Was there much oil in the catch can when the motor let go? I think the rb25 pump will be fine and if you follow all SK's oil control modifications you should have reliable motor.

sweetr33 Experienced

sweetr33

Posted
Posted

i like the rb26 crank upgrade as ive done the same hehe but this was 3 years ago and the rb30/twin cam thing wasnt as well advertised then as it is now so in away im spewin i didnt go that way, but at same time am happy with results so far with 2.6 crank... i would prob recommend going for rb30/twincam setup. roughly same costs and benifits from wat ive heard are well worth it....

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

You dont need $$$ rods.

GTR rods for $150 are more than upto the task with decent bolts.

They will hold another 100rwkw over what you will ever want.

Personally, i'd have Racepace built it, and thus... contact em for their thoughts :pirate:

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the input guys:)

GTSt-Vspec - I will look into the Nismo bearings, just don't want to go with aluminium again as it isn't as resiliant as the lead/copper

RB30 will definately be more expensive than this build, just due to the little fiddly extras (like plenum and rerouting the cooler pipes etc), I don't really want to go back to cast pistons and I don't want to use high km second hand parts if I can avoid it... GTR rods would be okay I guess and would save me enough to get a baffled sump or the JUN/HKS oil pump... I will be blueprinting/balancing everything I can lay my hands on anyway

yep Ben would do a better job than me but where is the fun in that;)

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no idea what the difference is between the OEM - Nismo mounts are... but Nismo FTW;)

Thanks Adriano I wasn't sure if I could use the 26 crank and rods with the Arias pistons already in there... but when I bought the pistons they were 26 spec anyway as arias don't make 25 spec???

very true ash, it gets a little less fun every time hehe

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

Definatly go the JUN/HKS or Tomei pump depending on your available dollars. Ive heard rumour that the new N1 pumps are failing due to problems with the quality of the metal in the pump rotor. With the gtr crank make sure it has the oil pump drive extension fitted if its an R32 GTR crank. Especially considering how your circuit race it. Last of all if you can afford to, put in a set of H-beams. Cheap insurance.

Same oil pump mods should be done if your going down the RB30DET path and still will race the car as well.

Sump baffel definatly or oil surging can still cause bearing failure like you already have. The other possability is a sump extension to add a few more litres of oil to the sump. Extra oil in the oil lines from the cooler and remote filter doesnt help if the pickup is sucking air.

Have fun with it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By TurboTapin 路 Posted

      You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • QB6SAGR
      Battle of the broken skylines

      By QB6SAGR 路 Posted

      Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 馃槀 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • cosline
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By cosline 路 Posted

      Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Rezz
      Spotted on the street....

      By Rezz 路 Posted

      Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
脳
脳
  • Create New...