Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I recently spun a big end bearing in my RB25 at a track day... this is the second time I have had to rebuild so it was a relatively fresh engine (25,000km)... I have already been over most of this but wanted to throw it open to the whole forum, see thread here for more info http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=173225

I don't know whether the problem is oil starvation, oil contamination or misassembly from the previous build... so I'm going to try and cover all 3 with this build... I don't have any pics of the bearings but #2 took most of the punishment ... my mechanic and myself will be doing everything excluding machining so I need all the info I can get

engine will be used on the street as well as frequently at circuits and motorkhanas... will only be pushing 200rwkw for the time being but when my bank balance recovers we will be going for no more than 300rwkw... reliability is the number 1 thing I want to achive, I want to be able to thrash the living hell out of it and not have to take the engine out again any time soon (ever if possible! pain in the butt to take an RB out!)

parts list:

New RB26 crank

ACL race bearings (no more aluminium!)

Eagle rods with ARP bolts

Arias pistons and rings (already in there from last build)

N1 oil pump

N1 water pump

ACL gaskets

Nismo engine mounts (current ones are shagged)

Oil cooler (yes I should have already had one!)

oil control:

block off front oil feed to head, 1.25mm restrictor in other oil feed, leave VCT feed alone

external oil drain from back of head to sump

clean up of oil galleries for improved flow

That's about it but I have a couple of questions:

is the JUN oil pump worth $450 more than the N1? I am happy to pay the extra as long as its not just for the brand name...

If I were to go a stroker crank would the extra .3 of a litre be worth an extra $2000? been thinking of RB30 but that would be a similar additional cost as I would have to buy new pistons

in the other thread there was some argument about a baffled sump, do I need one?

Cheers,

Nick

I am sure you have already thought of it but RB30DET :) then no need for rb26 crank

the cost of the build would be nearly the same. you would loose VCT but the extra capacity is a big bonus

  NickR33 said:
Hi guys,

I recently spun a big end bearing in my RB25 at a track day... this is the second time I have had to rebuild so it was a relatively fresh engine (25,000km)... I have already been over most of this but wanted to throw it open to the whole forum, see thread here for more info http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=173225

I don't know whether the problem is oil starvation, oil contamination or misassembly from the previous build... so I'm going to try and cover all 3 with this build... I don't have any pics of the bearings but #2 took most of the punishment ... my mechanic and myself will be doing everything excluding machining so I need all the info I can get

engine will be used on the street as well as frequently at circuits and motorkhanas... will only be pushing 200rwkw for the time being but when my bank balance recovers we will be going for no more than 300rwkw... reliability is the number 1 thing I want to achive, I want to be able to thrash the living hell out of it and not have to take the engine out again any time soon (ever if possible! pain in the butt to take an RB out!)

parts list:

New RB26 crank

ACL race bearings (no more aluminium!)

Eagle rods with ARP bolts

Arias pistons and rings (already in there from last build)

N1 oil pump

N1 water pump

ACL gaskets

Nismo engine mounts (current ones are shagged)

Oil cooler (yes I should have already had one!)

oil control:

block off front oil feed to head, 1.25mm restrictor in other oil feed, leave VCT feed alone

external oil drain from back of head to sump

clean up of oil galleries for improved flow

That's about it but I have a couple of questions:

is the JUN oil pump worth $450 more than the N1? I am happy to pay the extra as long as its not just for the brand name...

If I were to go a stroker crank would the extra .3 of a litre be worth an extra $2000? been thinking of RB30 but that would be a similar additional cost as I would have to buy new pistons

in the other thread there was some argument about a baffled sump, do I need one?

Cheers,

Nick

I think a baffled sump would help when doing track work. Also slightly over filling the sump helps too.

RB30 you don't need new pistons for 200-300rwkW if you get a good rb30, you just need the pistons ceramic coated.

Was there much oil in the catch can when the motor let go? I think the rb25 pump will be fine and if you follow all SK's oil control modifications you should have reliable motor.

i like the rb26 crank upgrade as ive done the same hehe but this was 3 years ago and the rb30/twin cam thing wasnt as well advertised then as it is now so in away im spewin i didnt go that way, but at same time am happy with results so far with 2.6 crank... i would prob recommend going for rb30/twincam setup. roughly same costs and benifits from wat ive heard are well worth it....

You dont need $$$ rods.

GTR rods for $150 are more than upto the task with decent bolts.

They will hold another 100rwkw over what you will ever want.

Personally, i'd have Racepace built it, and thus... contact em for their thoughts :pirate:

thanks for the input guys:)

GTSt-Vspec - I will look into the Nismo bearings, just don't want to go with aluminium again as it isn't as resiliant as the lead/copper

RB30 will definately be more expensive than this build, just due to the little fiddly extras (like plenum and rerouting the cooler pipes etc), I don't really want to go back to cast pistons and I don't want to use high km second hand parts if I can avoid it... GTR rods would be okay I guess and would save me enough to get a baffled sump or the JUN/HKS oil pump... I will be blueprinting/balancing everything I can lay my hands on anyway

yep Ben would do a better job than me but where is the fun in that;)

no idea what the difference is between the OEM - Nismo mounts are... but Nismo FTW;)

Thanks Adriano I wasn't sure if I could use the 26 crank and rods with the Arias pistons already in there... but when I bought the pistons they were 26 spec anyway as arias don't make 25 spec???

very true ash, it gets a little less fun every time hehe

Definatly go the JUN/HKS or Tomei pump depending on your available dollars. Ive heard rumour that the new N1 pumps are failing due to problems with the quality of the metal in the pump rotor. With the gtr crank make sure it has the oil pump drive extension fitted if its an R32 GTR crank. Especially considering how your circuit race it. Last of all if you can afford to, put in a set of H-beams. Cheap insurance.

Same oil pump mods should be done if your going down the RB30DET path and still will race the car as well.

Sump baffel definatly or oil surging can still cause bearing failure like you already have. The other possability is a sump extension to add a few more litres of oil to the sump. Extra oil in the oil lines from the cooler and remote filter doesnt help if the pickup is sucking air.

Have fun with it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...