Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys,

I have a Greddy front feed plenum copy that i purchased from ebay. Anyway ive had some time this week to finally start assembling it and ive been documenting it for a tutorial im making.

Anyway, the finish on this product is very average and i decided to check with you guys on one part about it that im very skeptical about...

post-32703-1185677748_thumb.jpg post-32703-1185677807_thumb.jpg post-32703-1185677941_thumb.jpg

You can see one of the water gallery holes on the greddy plenum is poorly cut and is dangerously close to the cylinder 6 intake feed. Total gap between the 2 feeds is about 2mm. I DO NOT want to be filling my cylinders with water, ive already experienced this once and it hurts!

Do you think when applying the silicone i can just give a bit extra to that part? Im a bit worried to attempt this as the risk is pretty big...

ADVISE PLEASE GUYS!?!? :D

Edited by zertek
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178526-greddy-copy-plenum-pics/
Share on other sites

your a brave man tobe putting that on your car! try contacting the ebay seller send them pixs and ask for an exchange for a better one!! i really wouldnt put that on your car! your only asking for trouble! your trying to save $500 by buying a knock off greddy peice but will cost u a 3k motor in the long run! heres a saying in the automotive feild you should live by-"if u cut enough corners, you will just end up in a circle"

if it was me i wouldnt use it

it looks rough inside obviously

the standard one would be better.

yea but the problem now is i was stupid enough to paint the plenum and cant really arrange a refund now when it cost me over $350. Im thinking now maybe i can get it custom welded to join to the standard intake manifold runners???

Anyone here capable of doing this?

what you could do is take it to a welder and get them to put some more metal to make it bigger distance between the two then get it refaced for sealing.

wouldnt cost much at all and you still would be cheaper then a over priced Greedy plenum from a store.

Just thinking about it i shouldnt have to pay for extra welding or modifying when i have just been sold shit! So i have contacted the seller on ebay.

"Dear seller,

The plenum i recieved is not in working order as one of the water galary feeds is cut very poorly only leaving it with a 2mm gap from the air intake feed... This doesnt allow me to fit a gasket and isnt really repairable with out some expense from a welder. I would like to organise an exchange for another one that is in working order.

Thank you,

Regards, Michael"

Im not good with being all legal or what ever but i hope he can arange something and sort this out.

Dude, you paid $350 for something correctly made, would cost $1000+

I dont see why your complaining.

You tried to skimp on the costs, and got done.

Its a "copy" so, the comment back will most likely be "it was a copy, doesnt have to be exact" or similar.

Dude, you paid $350 for something correctly made, would cost $1000+

I dont see why your complaining.

You tried to skimp on the costs, and got done.

Its a "copy" so, the comment back will most likely be "it was a copy, doesnt have to be exact" or similar.

mate i know its a copy but having previous experience with a JUN copy front feed on my old RB20det i was extremely happy with it. the feeds were identicle to the stock feeds and the over all finish of the product was smooth and precise. Keeping in mind that this was ALSO a copy for around the same price.

Going by my previous great experience with a copy, and weighing up my options on price of coarse i selected another copy. this time being a greddy copy for an rb25det.

Dont try and treat me like a idiot.

mate i know its a copy but having previous experience with a JUN copy front feed on my old RB20det i was extremely happy with it. the feeds were identicle to the stock feeds and the over all finish of the product was smooth and precise. Keeping in mind that this was ALSO a copy for around the same price.

Going by my previous great experience with a copy, and weighing up my options on price of coarse i selected another copy. this time being a greddy copy for an rb25det.

Dont try and treat me like a idiot.

Im not treating you like an idiot.

Im simply telling you that if you expected something decent for $350, your kidding yourself, and now that you did get done... its time to just get over it.

Performance isnt cheap, its as simple as that. If you try and cut corners you'll end up paying for it in other ways.

Now you have to spend coin to get the thing to a useable if you want to use it, or you just eat the cost and learn from it

the question is

why didnt you inspect the manifold upon receiving it in the post?

the first thing you should have done is inspect it for transit damage, and or faulty manufacture.

then you could have sent it straight back.

im with nismoid on this one, you got screwed, but the only person to blame is yourself for not looking

properly to begin with.

get it welded up and then reshape it with a die grinder and move on.

the question is

why didnt you inspect the manifold upon receiving it in the post?

the first thing you should have done is inspect it for transit damage, and or faulty manufacture.

then you could have sent it straight back.

im with nismoid on this one, you got screwed, but the only person to blame is yourself for not looking

properly to begin with.

get it welded up and then reshape it with a die grinder and move on.

when i got my tig welder aust post told me i was not allowed to open it i had to sign clearance first :)

then i got chokes for my webbers(private) and it was same

and just recently a roll cage from bond for my new project and wasnt allowed to unpack it there and then

and on closer inspection those ports are real ruff so id complain too i guess :laugh:

Also at G1 last sunday i was speaking to a couple of drifters that had them installed and they were very happy with the results. I guess i got a dud.

Also yea i am an idiot for not dumby fitting it first. I really stuffed up there and ignored my own advise (always dumby fit).

oh well atleast now there is a warning to the many people on the forums, that i have read are curious about these plenums.

I personally wouldnt every buy another one unless i could inspect it with my own eyes.

Get the suspect ports fill welded and ground back shouldn't cost too much, I'd say it would still be usable once this is done. I wouldn't be asking for an exchange, I'd be asking for credit as it's not worth the $350+. $150 your way would be fair.

Can you still access the plenum advertisement in your eBay feedback? if so take careful note of how it's written, some ads on eBay can be deceiving to the actual description of the item.

Get the suspect ports fill welded and ground back shouldn't cost too much, I'd say it would still be usable once this is done. I wouldn't be asking for an exchange, I'd be asking for credit as it's not worth the $350+. $150 your way would be fair.

Can you still access the plenum advertisement in your eBay feedback? if so take careful note of how it's written, some ads on eBay can be deceiving to the actual description of the item.

yes i have accessed that and read over it. They cover pretty much everything except they dont state 'DET' after RB25. although i quoted them on that before purchace and they assured me its for RB25det.

The people i have spoken to with these installed all have good results... i was the unlucky one and recieved a dud :laugh:

I will take your advise and question them about a credit. hopefuly something to help cover the costs of the welding.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...