Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just looking around at a few stockish 33 series2'

my main criteria is buying something clean and reliable that hopefully will not blow up and die - what is the best inspection to get done on the car? is it worth it?

lots of people say RACQ are good, anyone had this done? do they know imports? and everyone says to have it hoisted up and take a look at the bottom... problem is i have no idea wat to look for. do RACQ do this?

OR

is there a good local garage/guy in the brisbane area? just anyones opinions/experiences?

ALSO - apart from common sense stuff (ive read the guide to first time buying thread), any way to check that the Ks are genuine??? because i cant beleive that a 10year old car has only done 60k, even 100k seems unlikely??? thoughts opinions

thanks

RACQ are pretty thorough, but they'll pick up stuff that isn't important and probably miss things that are, because imports aren't what they specialise in. If I was buying an import I wouldn't bother taking it to them. I'd take it to a trusted workshop. Which one is up to you, if you do a search in this forum (QLD) you'll get more than enough recommendations. As for km's, thats the risk you take when buying an import...so many have non genuine km's, but get the car checked over and you should be fine.

Good luck.

Couple of things you should do is a compression and leakdown test on the motor. This will tell you what sort of condition the engine is in. Any decent mechanic can do this. While you are there get them to check steering and suspension components. The body can be checked for any bubbles in the paint which could indicate rust, use small magnets to see if there are any rust repairs that have been done. Look for paint on panels that may not match the rest of the car perfectly, which is an indicator that there may have been some sort of repair done.

ps. I wouldn't worry about the kays, as cars are not always driven as far in Japan as they are in Australia.

Edited by Thunderbolt

Any other idea is a buy a car that everyone knows, ie mine :laugh:

Everyone can tell you the service history and the $$$ put into it over the years.

PS> There is no such thing as low km's on and import, they all get shaved. You can have a rough guess tho from the condition of the interia and under carage.

RACQ checks are pretty shit imo.

sorry but i know alot of people who have had ther silvias and skylines done and they dont pick up the simplest problems.

eg oil leak from turbo. coolant leak. cracked manifolds. sump leaks. wheel bearings.

mostly they will only pick engine oil leaks, brake pads and tyres. they only do major bits...

i recommend take a trusted mechanic who understands the cars. jack her up go fully over it..

one way to check kms is to look at the door service sticker. or the dock kms reading. but most of them are ripped off prior to making it into the country. :laugh: also check the interior condition handbrake condition/steering wheel/pedal/seats/carpet..

Any other idea is a buy a car that everyone knows, ie mine :)

Everyone can tell you the service history and the $$$ put into it over the years.

PS> There is no such thing as low km's on and import, they all get shaved. You can have a rough guess tho from the condition of the interia and under carage.

i wouldnt say all.. if u look hard and go to the right places u too can get a genuine kms GTR like i did lol.. :laugh:

out of interest how do you know your gtr's km's were genuine Mark? There is nothing stopping people in Japan shaving the km's back and imo that's where the majority of it happens.

if you see a 15 year old import with less than 100,000kms then you are seriously kidding yourself if you think they are genuine...

then you've got to say to yourself.. if they have changed the kms, then what else are they lying about?

out of interest how do you know your gtr's km's were genuine Mark? There is nothing stopping people in Japan shaving the km's back and imo that's where the majority of it happens.
if you see a 15 year old import with less than 100,000kms then you are seriously kidding yourself if you think they are genuine...

then you've got to say to yourself.. if they have changed the kms, then what else are they lying about?

ohh i love this bit.. :laugh: like i said. door service sticker, nissan service sticker :) timing belt sticker. not to mention my GTR was clean as. no wear on anything even the original steering wheel with no marks..

hehe any more questions..?

jealous much. ???

the above still doesn't mean that someone in Japan didn't shave back the km's, service centers (even in Japan) only write down the km's they see...but hey...this isn't relevant to the thread. Like everyone's said be careful, get the car checked over and i'm sure you'll be happy. Alternatively, buy Col's car :laugh:

yeah i get what ur saying but the majority of dodgy stuff happens between japan and brisbane on the boats and stuff. and alot of aussie dealers wind them back.. but i got proof with my unmarked interior.. just recommend that u look hard and be patient..

i have no idea of your car, markimak, i was referring to the original poster who started the thread

if you see a car for sale here in australia, or at a dealer, then 99.9999% of the ones with less than 100,000kms are fake

denial is the only thing that will make you believe otherwise

of course there is the very odd exception with evidecne you seem to have markimak, but that is very mcuh out of hte ordinary for most buyers..

lol nah im talking to old mate keegs lol. no probs yo.

yeah i basically imported it myself.

anyway. i personally think RACQ are a waste of time. does anyone wanna argue with me and tell me of ther good experiences with ther inspections.?

When I was looking at buying my first car (Silvia) I had two inspected through RACQ and they certainly were thorough enough to make me not touch either of the cars..with the 3rd one checked out coming back pretty clean, had it for 2 years with no problems at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...