Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just looking around at a few stockish 33 series2'

my main criteria is buying something clean and reliable that hopefully will not blow up and die - what is the best inspection to get done on the car? is it worth it?

lots of people say RACQ are good, anyone had this done? do they know imports? and everyone says to have it hoisted up and take a look at the bottom... problem is i have no idea wat to look for. do RACQ do this?

OR

is there a good local garage/guy in the brisbane area? just anyones opinions/experiences?

ALSO - apart from common sense stuff (ive read the guide to first time buying thread), any way to check that the Ks are genuine??? because i cant beleive that a 10year old car has only done 60k, even 100k seems unlikely??? thoughts opinions

thanks

RACQ are pretty thorough, but they'll pick up stuff that isn't important and probably miss things that are, because imports aren't what they specialise in. If I was buying an import I wouldn't bother taking it to them. I'd take it to a trusted workshop. Which one is up to you, if you do a search in this forum (QLD) you'll get more than enough recommendations. As for km's, thats the risk you take when buying an import...so many have non genuine km's, but get the car checked over and you should be fine.

Good luck.

Couple of things you should do is a compression and leakdown test on the motor. This will tell you what sort of condition the engine is in. Any decent mechanic can do this. While you are there get them to check steering and suspension components. The body can be checked for any bubbles in the paint which could indicate rust, use small magnets to see if there are any rust repairs that have been done. Look for paint on panels that may not match the rest of the car perfectly, which is an indicator that there may have been some sort of repair done.

ps. I wouldn't worry about the kays, as cars are not always driven as far in Japan as they are in Australia.

Edited by Thunderbolt

Any other idea is a buy a car that everyone knows, ie mine :laugh:

Everyone can tell you the service history and the $$$ put into it over the years.

PS> There is no such thing as low km's on and import, they all get shaved. You can have a rough guess tho from the condition of the interia and under carage.

RACQ checks are pretty shit imo.

sorry but i know alot of people who have had ther silvias and skylines done and they dont pick up the simplest problems.

eg oil leak from turbo. coolant leak. cracked manifolds. sump leaks. wheel bearings.

mostly they will only pick engine oil leaks, brake pads and tyres. they only do major bits...

i recommend take a trusted mechanic who understands the cars. jack her up go fully over it..

one way to check kms is to look at the door service sticker. or the dock kms reading. but most of them are ripped off prior to making it into the country. :laugh: also check the interior condition handbrake condition/steering wheel/pedal/seats/carpet..

Any other idea is a buy a car that everyone knows, ie mine :)

Everyone can tell you the service history and the $$$ put into it over the years.

PS> There is no such thing as low km's on and import, they all get shaved. You can have a rough guess tho from the condition of the interia and under carage.

i wouldnt say all.. if u look hard and go to the right places u too can get a genuine kms GTR like i did lol.. :laugh:

out of interest how do you know your gtr's km's were genuine Mark? There is nothing stopping people in Japan shaving the km's back and imo that's where the majority of it happens.

if you see a 15 year old import with less than 100,000kms then you are seriously kidding yourself if you think they are genuine...

then you've got to say to yourself.. if they have changed the kms, then what else are they lying about?

out of interest how do you know your gtr's km's were genuine Mark? There is nothing stopping people in Japan shaving the km's back and imo that's where the majority of it happens.
if you see a 15 year old import with less than 100,000kms then you are seriously kidding yourself if you think they are genuine...

then you've got to say to yourself.. if they have changed the kms, then what else are they lying about?

ohh i love this bit.. :laugh: like i said. door service sticker, nissan service sticker :) timing belt sticker. not to mention my GTR was clean as. no wear on anything even the original steering wheel with no marks..

hehe any more questions..?

jealous much. ???

the above still doesn't mean that someone in Japan didn't shave back the km's, service centers (even in Japan) only write down the km's they see...but hey...this isn't relevant to the thread. Like everyone's said be careful, get the car checked over and i'm sure you'll be happy. Alternatively, buy Col's car :laugh:

yeah i get what ur saying but the majority of dodgy stuff happens between japan and brisbane on the boats and stuff. and alot of aussie dealers wind them back.. but i got proof with my unmarked interior.. just recommend that u look hard and be patient..

i have no idea of your car, markimak, i was referring to the original poster who started the thread

if you see a car for sale here in australia, or at a dealer, then 99.9999% of the ones with less than 100,000kms are fake

denial is the only thing that will make you believe otherwise

of course there is the very odd exception with evidecne you seem to have markimak, but that is very mcuh out of hte ordinary for most buyers..

lol nah im talking to old mate keegs lol. no probs yo.

yeah i basically imported it myself.

anyway. i personally think RACQ are a waste of time. does anyone wanna argue with me and tell me of ther good experiences with ther inspections.?

When I was looking at buying my first car (Silvia) I had two inspected through RACQ and they certainly were thorough enough to make me not touch either of the cars..with the 3rd one checked out coming back pretty clean, had it for 2 years with no problems at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...