Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kn8hvfwAESE...ted&search=

Just a short video of some guy driving his Ford XR6T up a hill, sounds similar to a skyline in my opinion but maybe its just that BOV hehe.

They are using the same engine setup so its not far off I guess.

doesnt move... 288 KW AND ALL U HEAR IS A "CHURP" what is this shit? a freaking 180kw r33? lol

I was thinking the same thing...

But then I remembered that the thing weighs 1700kg...

Taking the weight into account, that thing would be about 230kw odd (at 1400kg)...

not really, a mate of mine has a 280+kw xr6t auto, and that thing is a wild bull on the road

iv also driven a 280+ kw xr6t and was a bit scary to drive considering all the torque and losing traction at over 130km/h

that there would be TOPS 230 240kw at the wheels.

but like i said, it doesnt move

hmm maybe im wroung with the psi but its deff 330, bigger injectors,fuel pump, external gate, valve springs 4inch exhaust and a tune. 330 rwkw. oh and upgraded clutch. just did its first diff and drive shaft. snapped both lol. thing mooves >_<

im a mechanic at ford, their diffs and driveshafts are crap as... but yeah his psi would haveto be over 15psi.. they do move once tuned dont get me wrong

The BA XR6T is going to be exactly like every other habib spec VL in 5 years time when more P Platers can afford to

buy them..

You will begin to see them with drop tanks, venecian blinds & car bra's..

20's bro 20's..

not really, a mate of mine has a 280+kw xr6t auto, and that thing is a wild bull on the road

iv also driven a 280+ kw xr6t and was a bit scary to drive considering all the torque and losing traction at over 130km/h

that there would be TOPS 230 240kw at the wheels.

but like i said, it doesnt move

Yeah, I was assuming obviously that the guy wasnt full of shit about the amount of power the thing has got. you've gotta remember that the in car video makes it appear much slower than it really is too.

my sister-ini-laws boyfriend is running 12psi through his and is getting 223kw on a base tune. that is with stock exhaust though.

a mate is making about 310kw at 15psi on stock turbo, but he has had a rebuild. before he got the 3 speed gearbox put in if he punched it at 120kmh, when it dropped back to 3rd gear the traction control would kick in.

as for the chirping between gears, that also depends on what tyres he is running. if he is running a good set of 265s on the rear then they are going to be a bit harder to spin than a crappy set of 235s.

I'm guessing you meant "flaws"?

Yeah they are a nice car.. I'm gonna buy one when I finally grow up and need a family car. Until then though, they're still a tad too heavy for my liking.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...